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PR: Proprietary Items Seat

Serge Hilfiger

New Website User
Non-VOC Member
I recently started with the restoration of my HRD serie "C" Rapide I purchased some 35 years ago. Now I am working on the seat and I have some doubts about what is original and what is not. Especially meant are the angle irons discoverd between the plywood and the seat squab but maybe there are other non factory original features? Could you please help me in that sense?

Attached are some pictures of what the removal of the cover has unveiled. I am going to replace the plywood base, the cover (fortunately my saddler still has some left cover material close to the original one) and most probably the squab.

Are there different squab qualities available on the market or is the VOC the only source?
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Hi Serge, the two pieces of angle iron are standard, 5/8" from memory. Often the curved piece of steel plate at the rear is rusty and needs to be replaced. The other place to look at carefully is at the front where there are two downwards facing supports. These often fatigue either through being used with a seat where the rear has been supported inadequately or just misuse.
The average weight of people is now much larger than it was 70 years ago and there are now much larger seats available that have softer rubber inserts and are therefore much more comfortable than the originals, Care has to be taken with these longer seats to make sure that they do not foul the lifting handle on the rear mudguard.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I cannot place why with the elongated seat I feel higher than before I reduced the squab on the rider end to the same as original and the feeling persists it may be my mounting frame I will investigate further on the rebuild but its nice to have more pillion space
1602586524692.jpeg
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Serge, Can't see any photos ?.
I have just built a standard seat using new Squab and brackets and cover, I made the base, 19mm ply,
They say you should make the base smaller than YOUR Squab, As there are different size foams,
I think I made base about 6 mm smaller all the way round, Or it cuts the in to the cover ??.
 

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Serge Hilfiger

New Website User
Non-VOC Member
Thanks to all for sharing your helpful expériences. Please find herewith the picts which obviously did not went through
 

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Oldhaven

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
This thread has some good information. In particular, if you have an original Dunlopillo seat foam and think it has gone bad you may be surprised at how they can be brought back. Mine is still going strong after I repaired it and some of the replacements don’t have the same density or shape.


 

Marcus Bowden

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Bill my handsome, I like the way you put in your "D" seat strut into the back of the footrest plate as it puts less strain on the front seat mounting lugs but also it is in keeping the aesthetics of the rear lifting handle and mine also keeping the old seat strut as it was useful in 95 NZ when my hydraulic damper failed I tightened up on the friction. Seat sponge is the original Dunlopillo, new sponges are definitely nowhere near the same comfort, I use a 10mm composition made from a floorboard of an inflatable boat hinged on the front end of an aluminium base made in HMD Devonport in 65, the little holes around the outside were to hold the covering on with a stainless band, my mother was worn out by the time we finished each side for two evenings. So the next seat cover and subsequent ones were stapled into a baseboard with monnel metal staples.
bananaman.

P1070364.jpg
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The illustration in KTB shows the flange of the hump fitting on the underside. My standard seat is the same, but may not be original. On Serge’s seat, it is on top, if I had installed the flange on the top on my large seat it would have hit the tubing arch.
 

MartynG

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Thanks to all for sharing your helpful expériences. Please find herewith the picts which obviously did not went through
Looks like all original setup except for the odd philips (cross) head screws. The front legs have been butchered - there should be only one hole. You can purchase a complete set of seat iron from the VOC Spares co then have the seat rebuilt using the original cover and foam. Make a new marine grade plywood base using the old one as a pattern,
 

Shane998

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Thanks to all for sharing your helpful expériences. Please find herewith the picts which obviously did not went through
The front mounting points can be welded up and redrilled Even if you put a doubler on the outside It’s only the inside distance that matters Cheaper than buying a new set and the original frames seem to fit better on the seat stays
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The frame I have just bought seems a bit on the thin side ,
I can't tell for sure because my other stuff has been messed with, By me years ago :D .
I may have to weld some strength into it, We will see.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Its something I want to look at closely on my rebuild as I want to sit a little closer to the action with a fully sprung seat I think I can reduce the front fixing height but I must watch for tipping the seat forward so the rear must lower as well, The rear mudguard clearance is dictated by the closed length of my AVO coil over without taking it apart anyone know the closed length?
If necessary the lifting loop can go as with a center stand the rear is only for workshop or emergency use.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
The earlier bikes had short front seat supports as standard. They were only lengthened later. When it comes to checking the minimum length of the AVOs be aware that there is a bump stop inside which, if it is like the front ones, is very hard to compress. When doing the checking sit on the bike with someone else, or a bag of sand, just to make sure that you are into the bump stop region.
 

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