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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Running in Questions Series D
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<blockquote data-quote="Tom Gaynor" data-source="post: 24132" data-attributes="member: 4034"><p><strong>My baby dun left me: my pipes have got the blues</strong></p><p></p><p>It sounds as though you've pretty well got it right.</p><p>Blue pipes are not a guide to setting timing or mixture strength. If they were then dealers would sell timing discs and jets instead of "anti-blue" - or if you are buying from Dany Vincent, Restom, "antibleu pour chromes" - to get rid of the damn stuff. If you want a Vincent without blue pipes then 1) be very lucky - or, possibly, have mixture and timing wildly out. 2) use pipes of thicker steel 3) commission a set of double-skinned pipes like wot Honda and Harley do, then the inner skin will blue and the outer won't, or 4) buy stainless pipes - they go a light brown colour instead!</p><p>My (club, chrome) pipes have been blue from day one, over a timing range of 38 to 34 BTDC (static), and jets from 210 to 180. Current settings (with 289 carbs and a mag) are 34 BTDC and 190 jets. I bought a new ATD from Roy Price. When the originals wear I believe they convert themselves into centrifugal switches, going from full retard to full advance, at around 1500 rpm.</p><p>Francois Grosset (of electric leg fame) sells a timing disc that can be fitted into the big-end quill (OP9/2) allowing the motor to be started and strobed without risk of seizure. I have one, but have never used it. He also sells a much better distributor than the Lucas pattern, the timing of which can be altered while the engine is running. </p><p>I jet on a combination of plug colour and engine behaviour. Plugs should be light brown to white on the central ceramic, and the motor ought to spit coming off the pilot until warm. (The classic method of tuning Manxes with Gardner carbs is "lean it out until it pops on the over-run, then richen it one".)</p><p>Caveat: if you find yourself more than 3 jet sizes away from "standard settings", stop and think. I know someone (not me!) who leaned a Manx down and down and down to get the rich fuelling right, until it seized. The magneto was failing, and the spark was too weak to burn all the fuel...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tom Gaynor, post: 24132, member: 4034"] [b]My baby dun left me: my pipes have got the blues[/b] It sounds as though you've pretty well got it right. Blue pipes are not a guide to setting timing or mixture strength. If they were then dealers would sell timing discs and jets instead of "anti-blue" - or if you are buying from Dany Vincent, Restom, "antibleu pour chromes" - to get rid of the damn stuff. If you want a Vincent without blue pipes then 1) be very lucky - or, possibly, have mixture and timing wildly out. 2) use pipes of thicker steel 3) commission a set of double-skinned pipes like wot Honda and Harley do, then the inner skin will blue and the outer won't, or 4) buy stainless pipes - they go a light brown colour instead! My (club, chrome) pipes have been blue from day one, over a timing range of 38 to 34 BTDC (static), and jets from 210 to 180. Current settings (with 289 carbs and a mag) are 34 BTDC and 190 jets. I bought a new ATD from Roy Price. When the originals wear I believe they convert themselves into centrifugal switches, going from full retard to full advance, at around 1500 rpm. Francois Grosset (of electric leg fame) sells a timing disc that can be fitted into the big-end quill (OP9/2) allowing the motor to be started and strobed without risk of seizure. I have one, but have never used it. He also sells a much better distributor than the Lucas pattern, the timing of which can be altered while the engine is running. I jet on a combination of plug colour and engine behaviour. Plugs should be light brown to white on the central ceramic, and the motor ought to spit coming off the pilot until warm. (The classic method of tuning Manxes with Gardner carbs is "lean it out until it pops on the over-run, then richen it one".) Caveat: if you find yourself more than 3 jet sizes away from "standard settings", stop and think. I know someone (not me!) who leaned a Manx down and down and down to get the rich fuelling right, until it seized. The magneto was failing, and the spark was too weak to burn all the fuel... [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Running in Questions Series D
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