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Rremoving the ET92 outer race from the crankcase

johnmead

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
What is the preferred method of removing the outer roller bearing race from the crankcase? Do you thin it in a couple of places with a Dremel tool, run an arcweld around the inside or is there a puller available.

John Mead
 

Bracker1

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Don't use a puller. Clear the area where the stakes are and heat the case. They should fall right out. I noticed when mine were removed there wasn't enough interference for the new race and inserts had to be machined up with loctite and machine srew retention. Good luck, Dan Hope to see it together for the International
 

passenger0_0

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
When it doesn't 'fall out' I arc weld a ring on the inner bearing face which creates a hoop stress when cooled that effectively 'shrinks the bearing ring. Heating of the case is always a good idea when removing mainbearings. Cheers David
 

davidd

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
John,

I use David's method. I tig weld around the center of the bearing and as it cools it will usually fall out. If it does not some local heat will cause it to drop. I have used this method on some wheel bearing races also.

David
 

johnmead

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
Thank you all for your responses. I took the cases to my welder and had him run a bead around the center of the race. Just like magic it fell out.

John
 

Tom Gaynor

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
A point made to me by Trevor Southwell is that C3 (or "three dot") bearings only have the design running clearance when shrunk into a housing with the correct interference. If they are already slack in the housing the inner races are running slack, and Loctite does nothing to remedy this. It needs new inserts. I suppose a way to avoid that would be to use C2 bearings, which (presumably - I don't know) give the right internal running clearance with less or no interference.
Any opinions on this?
Don't use a puller. Clear the area where the stakes are and heat the case. They should fall right out. I noticed when mine were removed there wasn't enough interference for the new race and inserts had to be machined up with loctite and machine srew retention. Good luck, Dan Hope to see it together for the International
 

johnmead

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
This is a low mileage engine with the original bearing races in it. I bought it as a basket case back in 1977 from the original owners son. His father took the engine apart because of a bottom end noise. I found that the drive side mainshaft had broken the pin that keeps it from turning. I had that repaired with a new pin and TIG welding around the inside of the wheels to keep the shaft from moving. I also had the same thing done to the timing mainshaft.

I will be putting the new races in next week. I tried fitting them in the housing at room temperature and they would not go in so I am pretty sure that I will have the correct bearing squish.

John
 
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