The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
removing scratches from perspex
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="peterg" data-source="post: 29885" data-attributes="member: 446"><p>Howdy chaps,</p><p></p><p>I'd go kinda easy with the headlight lense polishing kits on anything that really means something to you. Besides a one-size-fits-all approach, most lenses now have a stubborn protective coating the remnants of which assumed to be removed by the user before the real polishing can commence (that stuff don't buff), thus their "cutting" grits a bit aggressive while the finish grit too much of a step. Not so in many cases with vintage windshields and other plastic transparent covers. Good in a way, you're buffing the surface of the actual material the entire piece is made of (consistent results). So best advised to approach it like finishing a very good polyurethane or gelcoat.</p><p></p><p>Which on the latter, not to digress tooooo much but about 20 something years ago after building some forgetable machines (H..Davds..n) decided to build a classic completely over the top piece for Daytona Bike Week with the primary mission of learning what could recovered from dead and restoration techniques in general as the Vincent fever had finally taken a hold for good and I had to know when shopping in this thin air what I could save against the price being asked. That machine was this <u><u><a href="http://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1974-Norton-Norvil-Commando/19780563_cdhv2d/1554267840_cc4nL2r#!i=1554267756&k=FDqWwBk" target="_blank"><u>1974 Norton Norvil Commando</u></a></u></u> and what would set it apart from a sea of Commandos at the time was the finish on the Norvil Commando replica fiberglass body parts - it was going to be as slick as the best polyurethane finishes a the time. No paint, polished gelcoat.</p><p></p><p>Every sage (wag) had an opinion on what would be required to achieve that and I still have a cabinet with the remnants of those recommendations, but in the end (with a bit of work) this surface responded to good old wet sanding and fine buffing compound on a foam pad. </p><p></p><p>It worked well enough that on page 4 at the above link you'll see a 60 plus year old Indian windshield that had laid face down in the dirt in a barn until 1994 that with this discovery had clarity returned. 1500 grit for some of the bad scratches, 2000 all over followed by 2500 (3M, wet, rinsed very often to prevent contamination streaking) and a buff with a right angle drill at 1,500 using a foam dimpled pad and 3M Finesse It II.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peterg, post: 29885, member: 446"] Howdy chaps, I'd go kinda easy with the headlight lense polishing kits on anything that really means something to you. Besides a one-size-fits-all approach, most lenses now have a stubborn protective coating the remnants of which assumed to be removed by the user before the real polishing can commence (that stuff don't buff), thus their "cutting" grits a bit aggressive while the finish grit too much of a step. Not so in many cases with vintage windshields and other plastic transparent covers. Good in a way, you're buffing the surface of the actual material the entire piece is made of (consistent results). So best advised to approach it like finishing a very good polyurethane or gelcoat. Which on the latter, not to digress tooooo much but about 20 something years ago after building some forgetable machines (H..Davds..n) decided to build a classic completely over the top piece for Daytona Bike Week with the primary mission of learning what could recovered from dead and restoration techniques in general as the Vincent fever had finally taken a hold for good and I had to know when shopping in this thin air what I could save against the price being asked. That machine was this [U][U][URL="http://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/1974-Norton-Norvil-Commando/19780563_cdhv2d/1554267840_cc4nL2r#!i=1554267756&k=FDqWwBk"][U]1974 Norton Norvil Commando[/U][/URL][/U][/U] and what would set it apart from a sea of Commandos at the time was the finish on the Norvil Commando replica fiberglass body parts - it was going to be as slick as the best polyurethane finishes a the time. No paint, polished gelcoat. Every sage (wag) had an opinion on what would be required to achieve that and I still have a cabinet with the remnants of those recommendations, but in the end (with a bit of work) this surface responded to good old wet sanding and fine buffing compound on a foam pad. It worked well enough that on page 4 at the above link you'll see a 60 plus year old Indian windshield that had laid face down in the dirt in a barn until 1994 that with this discovery had clarity returned. 1500 grit for some of the bad scratches, 2000 all over followed by 2500 (3M, wet, rinsed very often to prevent contamination streaking) and a buff with a right angle drill at 1,500 using a foam dimpled pad and 3M Finesse It II. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
The Series 'A' Rapide was known as the '********' Nightmare?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
removing scratches from perspex
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top