FT: Frame (Twin) Rebuilding RFM bearing/shaft/bearings ?

bmetcalf

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There are a number of alternatives to the original arrangement if you are looking to save weight for racing I am very surprised that the costly arrangement survived the cost cutting moves of the series D perhaps there were sufficient stocks of bearings to cover the period that would determine the fate of Vincents last hope of survival..... About a year:(

What is your favorite alternative?
 

Dave61

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I thought I`d got the shimming right on my RFM but while fitting one of Dave Hills stands I could feel some play.
I took the RFM out to check,but it all seemed ok,though there is quite a bit of play between F39/2 & FT33 so could F39/2 be worn ?
Also have similar situation with front solid axle & hollow axle so bought new solid axle but made no difference so think the hollow axle must be worn as well.
Rear hub is fine on hollow to solid axle fit.
Has anyone got any advice please ?
 

chankly bore

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The FT33 and the wheel solid axles I have seen are all .500". A couple or three thou. in the bore for easy assembly should be O.K. I'd have thought. The F39/2 axle should be shimmed under the E 80 nuts so that the faces of the nuts take the end load when everything is tightened up.Once things are tight there shouldn't be as much movement as in a Norton Commando. Same applies to the axle assemblies unless you are using racing type brake plates. Maybe use a range of drill bits from 12.7mm. up in small increments to see what fit you have. Better opinions from mechanical adepts are more than welcome.
 

greg brillus

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When setting up the hollow axle of the swing arm, I fit the E 80 nuts on each end of the hollow axle and trial fit it to the rear of the engine/gearbox attachment points and wind out each nut till it is a snug fit between these two points. Then when assembling the hollow axle with bearings/shims in place, you try to duplicate this measurement as best you can. If the assembly has had play for some time, it is possible that the ID of the hollow axle could be worn and this may show up as having too much play on the solid axle, though it is the clamping affect once the 1/2 inch bsf nuts are fully tightened after the pillion plates are installed that this should disappear. If the G50 plate (on the right side of a twin) has to distort to "Pull inward" to clamp up to the swing arm, this is not desirable and could be a later cause for gear shifting issues. Some G50 plates actually had a bevel on the inner edge of the plate to aid in the reassembly of the swingarm. The bearings of the swing arm should be assembled at first with no grease and shimmed so after the E80 nuts are tightened, that the hollow axle can be just rotated by hand. This small amount of pre-load ensures that the swingarm has nil play and stay that way during service. Once this is achieved, then disassemble and grease the bearings, and reassemble as before. Sounds tedious, but does not take too long in reality. It is worth doing correctly, as this is not something you should need to do often. It is also quite normal for the E 80 nuts to overhang the edges of the thread on the hollow axle, and if the axle is too long, then shorten it in a lathe......But this is seldom the case. Cheers...................Greg.
 

stu spalding

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VOC Member
When setting up the hollow axle of the swing arm, I fit the E 80 nuts on each end of the hollow axle and trial fit it to the rear of the engine/gearbox attachment points and wind out each nut till it is a snug fit between these two points. Then when assembling the hollow axle with bearings/shims in place, you try to duplicate this measurement as best you can. If the assembly has had play for some time, it is possible that the ID of the hollow axle could be worn and this may show up as having too much play on the solid axle, though it is the clamping affect once the 1/2 inch bsf nuts are fully tightened after the pillion plates are installed that this should disappear. If the G50 plate (on the right side of a twin) has to distort to "Pull inward" to clamp up to the swing arm, this is not desirable and could be a later cause for gear shifting issues. Some G50 plates actually had a bevel on the inner edge of the plate to aid in the reassembly of the swingarm. The bearings of the swing arm should be assembled at first with no grease and shimmed so after the E80 nuts are tightened, that the hollow axle can be just rotated by hand. This small amount of pre-load ensures that the swingarm has nil play and stay that way during service. Once this is achieved, then disassemble and grease the bearings, and reassemble as before. Sounds tedious, but does not take too long in reality. It is worth doing correctly, as this is not something you should need to do often. It is also quite normal for the E 80 nuts to overhang the edges of the thread on the hollow axle, and if the axle is too long, then shorten it in a lathe......But this is seldom the case. Cheers...................Greg.
When rebuilding the RFM pivot check the hole size in F42/1 disc before fitting. I had a pair from a well known spares supplier which didn't clear the axle. Naturally, the fault wasn't discovered until after fitting! Cheers, Stu.
 

Dave61

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Non-VOC Member
Thanks for the the replies, really useful info,will have another play this week.
Slowly getting used to the foibles of working on a Vincent.
Cheers
Dave
 
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