Misc: Stands Rear Stand Removed

[bmetcalf]

This bike has the rear stand removed. I am undecided about copying it since I use rear stand so little anymore. The owner must unbolt the rear stays at the RFM when he wants to raise the flap.

https://www.vincentownersclub.co.uk...ual-bike-night-2009-last-monday-of-june.3974/

 

[highbury731]

If deleting the rear stand, it would seem more logical to make a loop stay, and retain the original stand pivot bolts, and use the tommy-bar quick release as standard. Doing so has crossed my mind, but it is well down the priority list.

 

[Russell Kemp]

Hi Bruce, my Shadow had a 'D' stand kit fitted, to replace the rear stand I used a pair of 'D' stays (FT22/8). They have a slot at one end so all you have to do to lift the rear flap is to slacken the two 480 set screws.

 

[BigEd]

If deleting the rear stand, it would seem more logical to make a loop stay, and retain the original stand pivot bolts, and use the tommy-bar quick release as standard. Doing so has crossed my mind, but it is well down the priority list.

I looked closely at the photograph and could only see a side prop stand and no centre stand. This would make it extremely difficult to remove the rear wheel when away from the workshop. If you have a good centre stand, e.g. Dave Hills type then removing the rear stand and replacing it with a loop stay could be a neat modification, especially if as suggested a tommy bar fixing for quick release was used. It would be a good idea to check that the centre stand gives enough lift to allow the wheel to roll out easily when the mudguard flap is up.
Off topic, I noticed that the speedometer drive is from rear left brake plate.

 

[Chris Launders]

I would like to remove my rear stand but the centre stand doesn't lift the rear high enough to get the sprocket under the chainguard, I end up putting small blocks under the feet to achieve this, no good at the roadside.

 

[vibrac]

I thought about this as I removed one of my rear drums as part of my Comet weight reduction exercise. I was thinking of something more substantial than the D stays as the B/C rear mudguard with the number plate is a bit of a pendulum for two stays to hold. I was thinking of an aluminium full loop with ears to pick up on the same large bolts as the stand and retaining the tommy bar to secure in centre. My intention was to still use the stand in the garage during maintenance if required. Weight wise perhaps a fine H or U section alloy bar would be ideal.

 

[bmetcalf]

The flap gets a lot of support from the width of the hinge.

The point of needing blocks under the Hills stand is well taken. When I put a new rear tire on last year, I had to go through the drill of off the center stand and then pulling up on the rearstand, while the bike was on the lift (lowered!)

 

[Peter Holmes]

I would like to remove my rear stand but the centre stand doesn't lift the rear high enough to get the sprocket under the chainguard, I end up putting small blocks under the feet to achieve this, no good at the roadside.

The penalty you pay for having a high rear wheel lift when using a centre stand is the additional force that is required when treading the stand down, I find best amount of lift is to just have the rear tyre clearing the tarmac, the chain-guard is only held on with 2 fixings, one at the front and one at the rear, and although sometimes a bit messy, if you remove the rear fixing bolt, and loosen the front fixing bolt you can normally get enough to clear a solo rear sprocket, hold the chain guard up with anything to hand, tie wrap, string, bungee etc.

If you want to achieve more height when using the centre stand, I prefer to block each stand leg up individually by gently pushing the bike carefully from side to side, never going over the COG, adding blocks as you go until a level height is achieved, in reality it only takes a couple 20mm blocks under each leg, if that.

PS I forgot to say, although I used the rear stand for many years, from the age of 16 through to around 60, even when fully loaded with luggage and panniers etc. God knows how, as I am a smallish guy, although maybe quite strong when I was younger, but I regard the rear stand as a total abomination, probably the worst thing fitted to an otherwise very well thought out motorcycle, mine now resides on my bike for solely cosmetic purposes, which I think it is all it is good for, and lastly a big thank you to Dave Hills, an all-round great guy, and maker of great stands.

 

[BigEd]

The penalty you pay for having a high rear wheel lift when using a centre stand is the additional force that is required when treading the stand down, I find best amount of lift is to just have the rear tyre clearing the tarmac, the chain-guard is only held on with 2 fixings, one at the front and one at the rear, and although sometimes a bit messy, if you remove the rear fixing bolt, and loosen the front fixing bolt you can normally get enough to clear a solo rear sprocket, hold the chain guard up with anything to hand, tie wrap, string, bungee etc.

Dear Peter,
I also have my centre stand adjusted so that the rear tyre just clears the ground which makes it so easy to use. A great tip about lifting the chain-guard to provide more clearance.

 

[vibrac]

On the subject of raising the back wheel without a rear stand I know from my Egli building exploits that often an Egli only has a side stand so this item may be of some interest

Tirox Snapjack Xtrail (2020XT)

<p>Tirox Snapjack Xtrail (58-7834)</p><ul><li>A compact telescoping ultra-stable prop stand to help you with regular adventure maintenance like chain lubricating and cleaning, or in emergency situations to change your flat tire.</li><li>At 10.5 inches or 27cm, it can easily be carried for any...

powersportselite.com

Personally I guess the inventive souls that we are we could make something similar perhaps even those of us with a standard rfm could use one! Heaven knows PCV left us enough holes in the rear frame...