Sid, sounds like -"if it won't go chrome it" makes it a no-go showboat!
Rapide seat - tight fit
- Thread starter danno
- Start date
This was said with a grin by those guys that rode their Brit bikes hard everywhere in all weathers of those whose owners fell so deeply for their bikes , new Triumphs , AJs , Matchlesses etc that they seldom rode them but polished every inch and chromed damn near everything else til it glittered like a diamond . one pal did this to his 650 triumph , stripped it down for the treatment , and NEVER rode it again ! Still know him to this day . Chrome surfaces become a drug , easily carried too far . Seen entire frames , swing arms , everything plated , they can't stop . And most are slow if ridden at all .
A few bits are ok , like brake arms , bits here and there . But painted fenders are more beautiful than plated ones by far . I went around to various Dealers at nite to study them under the lights and came firmly to that conclusion .
Too much plating as described gave rise to the description , they became " Ni rigs . Pardon me , that's a term others used . Sid .
A few bits are ok , like brake arms , bits here and there . But painted fenders are more beautiful than plated ones by far . I went around to various Dealers at nite to study them under the lights and came firmly to that conclusion .
Too much plating as described gave rise to the description , they became " Ni rigs . Pardon me , that's a term others used . Sid .
Whoops! My mistake. Getting mixed up with the original seat from my BMW R60/6.
Have ground around 2mm off of the Allen tanks bolts. Anymore wouldn't leave much depth for the Allen key.
Due to the bolts the seat is still very difficult to align and needs to be pulled forward with a fair bit of force in order to get the long bar through. The rear carrier arms are also mounted here.
I think the upper rubber (FT173/1) needs to be thinner and the bolts shorter to make more clearance.
Due to the bolts the seat is still very difficult to align and needs to be pulled forward with a fair bit of force in order to get the long bar through. The rear carrier arms are also mounted here.
I think the upper rubber (FT173/1) needs to be thinner and the bolts shorter to make more clearance.
Sid here . From Dannos description it appears that his seat is an aftermarket copy , not original and it's cushion is a bit rich up front . Not uncommon to extend somewhat over the bolts at the front , even found on many original seats , new bikes . Tends to leave imprinting in the cover material . The original two bolts at the rear of the tank were regular hex heads drilled for safety wire . It's possible to craft extenders that attach to the front seat bracket ears that lift the front of the seat . Did it myself to ease the bend in my knees . This gets the seat up and off those bolts . Sid .
[QUOTE The original two bolts at the rear of the tank were regular hex heads drilled for safety wire [/QUOTE]
I'd imagine they could be quite difficult to get in the threads on the frame as the rubber mounts grip the bolt. Easier with an allen key I find.
I'd imagine they could be quite difficult to get in the threads on the frame as the rubber mounts grip the bolt. Easier with an allen key I find.
Last time I used a tank with a standard rear fixing on the racer I screwed two alloystuds in the UFM locked them off with nuts underneath (alloy)with long plain portions sticking up. then added tank and rubber to taste and topped them off with 2 R clips.
Now that does speed up tank removal
Now that does speed up tank removal
I put a nut in my socket wrench to be able to press down on the standard hex head bolt to start the thread. The standard bolts have a cone tip to help center them in the tapped holes in the UFM.
I'd imagine they could be quite difficult to get in the threads on the frame as the rubber mounts grip the bolt. Easier with an allen key I find.[/QUOTE]
I'd imagine they could be quite difficult to get in the threads on the frame as the rubber mounts grip the bolt. Easier with an allen key I find.[/QUOTE]
That's what I do with the front tank bolts. They don't turn easily by hand and there's not enough room to use an open ended spanner.
I like the tank bolt mod using plain studs. I guess the tank needs to be removed in order to get the locking nuts in place.
Any idea what the thread size and type is for the holes in the UFM?