Proper oring chain maker and model??

[Ducdude]

I just ordered a 520 chain for my bored and stroked Comet. It's a DID 520 NZ, the chain is strengthened over a Standard 520 chain and usually used on Moto Cross bikes, though not the bling bling version. (it is standard steel colour, not the one with golden colour outer plates)
HTH
Bernd

Hi Bernd,

It looks like the DID 520ERV3 is only 18.6mm across the pins so it two will fit and it is desighned for 100hp bikes so the Shadow will be fine with it. The bummer is it is gold:-(... Well I will just have to get over it..


Thanks for the tip!

Eric

 

[Tom Gaynor]

I used DID motocross 520 chains on my (52 bhp at the wheel) Manx. They wear out fast: I used two in fifteen seasons...
I agree 100% with John. My Shadow has a JWIS standard 3/8 (530) chain, similar to the original Renold. I use a Scottoiler. I've adjusted it ONCE in 20,000 miles. I've now bought a VOC "kit" but am in no hurry to fit it. I think Scottoilers are wonderful.
I was lucky enough to have a standard Vin chain (on the Vin), a non-O-ring 520 (on the Manx), and an O-ring 520 (on a Ducati M900. It too had a Scottoiler, was also adjusted once in 20,000 miles...) and measured them. The maximum width of the 520 O-ring is almost the same as the original Renold 530 (or 5/8" x 3/8" if you prefer) so there's no problem in fitting it.
Incidentally, on all three I use / used spring links.
Scottoiler running costs can be dramatically reduced by trolling round to your local chain-saw shop and buying chain-saw oil. This is designed to lubricate exposed chains and resist fling. Sound familiar?

Hello,
For once I have to disagree with Albervin, After 30 years of removing, cleaning and boiling rear chains I decided that grease simply causes grit to stick to the chain.
The O ring chain only needs a wipe now and again as the Scott oil appears to flush the chain continuously. As for loss of power, if it was significant the O rings
would melt as the energy has to go somewhere. Also a clean chain is more efficient.
It looks like you need to rivet an O ring chain to get the most benefit, mine is, and causes a little more difficulty removing the back wheel but not too much on
a Vincent.
Perhaps road conditions are different in beautiful Illawarra.
Regards John.

 

[davidd]

I noticed that Kevin Cameron takes on primary chains in the latest CycleWorld. He states that Roland Pike notice a 2 HP increase on the dyno by merely squirting oil on the primary chain while it was running. This power, when converted to heat, destroys the chain unless the chain is run in the open. Kevin cites this as the reason that racing primary chains run in the open. I suspect that the O-rings on modern chains do not melt primarily because they are air cooled.

David

 

[stumpy lord]

Hi,
If you are running 12 volts on your machines I would highly recomend an electronic chain lubricator called a lubtronic, being electronic there is no need to drill holes in you manifolds, which removes the risk of air leaks, it allso has a small rotary control switch which if mounted on the handle bars can be adjusted as you ride, no need to stop and adjust the flow of your scot oiler when caught in that sudden rain storm.
For detailes se www.pdoiler.co.uk

l

 

[bmetcalf]

If you run a magneto, how does the pdoiler turn on?

 

[Pete Appleton]

You can use a caravan split charging relay like the one on the bottom of THIS page. Incidentally, I have used one of these to turn my running lights on once the engine starts.

Actually, I used a smaller one but you get the idea.

 

[stumpy lord]

hi,
i dont know what has hapend to my reply, but here goes again.
if you are using a magneto you will have to hard wire the lubtronic into the machine and fit a onn/off switch, preferably with a built in warning light.
stumpy lord

 

[bmetcalf]

What would the terminals 1 & 3 be wired to, parallel with my manually switched headlamp?

You can use a caravan split charging relay like the one on the bottom of THIS page. Incidentally, I have used one of these to turn my running lights on once the engine starts.

Actually, I used a smaller one but you get the idea.

 

[Pete Appleton]

I was talking about the voltage sensitive one at the very bottom of the page. One permanant live input, one ground and one 12V switched output. This only comes on when the generator starts charging and will switch off after a 10 or 20 seconds of non-charging.

You could wire it in parallel with your headlight switch but that could be a bit risky if it suddenly turns off due to low battery power.

My one powers the chain oiler, Auxiliary running lights and heated jacket. I don't mind if these turn themselves off when I am running at low revs. At least that leaves all of the available power for the headlights and ignition.

All unecessary complications but I did it because I could.

A better explanation is given with THIS item

 

[bmetcalf]

That is much simpler. Is the second item the one you use? Where do you mount it?