PT: Exhaust Pipe Flange
- Thread starter erik
- Start date
Hi litnman,
I like your Alpha bearing spacer solution to this re-flanging question - I've just acquired an early B rapide where they have tried to beat and bash a flange on to front down pipe with poor results so my thinking is to try and straighten the pipe and weld the flange on as you have. Problem is i dont recognise the Alpha bearing spacer, it seems a far more preferable solution than trying to beat a flange on to the pipe, where do you get them from?
Cheers Keith
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Keith,
I use the needle bearing spacers from rebuilt flywheels. I use a cut down ET84 for scribing a mark around the exhaust pipe. This mark
is the template for making sure the end of the pipe is ground true before the spacer is welded on.
I use the needle bearing spacers from rebuilt flywheels. I use a cut down ET84 for scribing a mark around the exhaust pipe. This mark
is the template for making sure the end of the pipe is ground true before the spacer is welded on.
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I used to have a handy tool to tap a flange on an exhaust (once lent out, and..... ) Unfortunately no photo. But it was a simple thing, a 2 piece clamp with a 40 mm hole that you clamped together with 2 bolts on the end of the exhaust. First I tapped a flange at 45 degrees with 1 side and then turned the tool around and tapped the flange at 90 degrees. However, when mounting the exhaust, the position of the exhaust rarely, if ever, came out right and the exhaust always had to be tightened under tension.
For many years now, I have been using the method with that little ring, though not from an old bigend bearing (a good idea by the way if you have saved it after a bigend overhaul). I turned a couple of rings 3 millimetres thick out of a piece of pipe, or if you don't have that out of a piece of solid round steel about 45 mm round (hour's work). The inside diameter of the ring should fit clamp on the exhaust. In case of a new chrome-plated exhaust, first grind away about 5 mm of chrome, don't forget to slide the exhaust nut onto the pipe first, then use a TIG welder to weld the washer with a very small weld at 1 point. Mount the exhaust so that the ring positions itself, then solder the ring all around with silver solder, finish the front flat with a file and ready for assembly!
For many years now, I have been using the method with that little ring, though not from an old bigend bearing (a good idea by the way if you have saved it after a bigend overhaul). I turned a couple of rings 3 millimetres thick out of a piece of pipe, or if you don't have that out of a piece of solid round steel about 45 mm round (hour's work). The inside diameter of the ring should fit clamp on the exhaust. In case of a new chrome-plated exhaust, first grind away about 5 mm of chrome, don't forget to slide the exhaust nut onto the pipe first, then use a TIG welder to weld the washer with a very small weld at 1 point. Mount the exhaust so that the ring positions itself, then solder the ring all around with silver solder, finish the front flat with a file and ready for assembly!
Good friends are indispensable as a Vincent rider, I thankfully have many, a friend with a water cutter I don't have but that's ideal, one of my friends thankfully has large lathe to turn those rings, my neighbour has soldering tools to solder silver with.
Mine is a block of alloy bored in the centre as a tight sliding fit on the pipe.
Now drill two holes across the block from the side, either side of main bore.
Now split the block to give two semi-circular halves.
On one half tap two of the cross holes.
On the other open the holes out to accept, your chosen bolts.
Clamp to end of pipe.
Then peen over your pipe end at leisure.
I find no heat is required.
Or...
If you buy a pipe from Armours send 'em the nut and they will put it on for you, note, I bet you will need to file to fit...
Best wishes to all...
Jim
Now drill two holes across the block from the side, either side of main bore.
Now split the block to give two semi-circular halves.
On one half tap two of the cross holes.
On the other open the holes out to accept, your chosen bolts.
Clamp to end of pipe.
Then peen over your pipe end at leisure.
I find no heat is required.
Or...
If you buy a pipe from Armours send 'em the nut and they will put it on for you, note, I bet you will need to file to fit...
Best wishes to all...
Jim
Not all pipes slip straight in (perpendicular)?? to the flange surface in the head, especially the rear head. So when clamping a block onto the pipe end I find it difficult getting it exactly where I want it before bending the flange. This is why I like inserting a cut down exhaust nut
into the head and marking a line around the pipe. This will show if the end of the pipe needs trued before welding a flange on.
into the head and marking a line around the pipe. This will show if the end of the pipe needs trued before welding a flange on.