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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
oil loss at valve lifter
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<blockquote data-quote="Tom Gaynor" data-source="post: 22561" data-attributes="member: 4034"><p>You need partially to dismantle it. It'll be easier (assuming you don't have the services of a Stevenage-trained bonsai octopus) to take the steady plate off, making sure that you've accounted for any shims adhering to the back of the plate.... then put a paint mark across all the timing gears so that IF you need to remove one, you don't have to retime.</p><p>I set a valve lifter up at the weekend, but had to take the rear lifter arm off to replace the roller. This complicated matters. If you don't have to do that I reckon you could just undo ET165ES, having eyeballed where the nuts ET175 are. This however would be a good time to switch to the later pattern valve lifter with an adjustment between the two arms (ET166/1), and to buy a valve-lifter assembly from Vinparts (Russell Kemp) which doesn't leak. The standard pattern does, new seals or no, unless modified. Neatest way is to fit a seal (inside a bored ET169) which seals on ET165ES, retained by a peened plate. (Credit to the club astronomer here...)</p><p></p><p>Often the reason the kickstart ratchet slips is because the bush G101 is worn allowing G46 to tilt and "peel" itself out of engagement. Don't ask how I know this. Mine was worn to a cylinder of Oilite foil... If it sits square it'll grip even when the teeth appear completely knackered to the casual eye.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tom Gaynor, post: 22561, member: 4034"] You need partially to dismantle it. It'll be easier (assuming you don't have the services of a Stevenage-trained bonsai octopus) to take the steady plate off, making sure that you've accounted for any shims adhering to the back of the plate.... then put a paint mark across all the timing gears so that IF you need to remove one, you don't have to retime. I set a valve lifter up at the weekend, but had to take the rear lifter arm off to replace the roller. This complicated matters. If you don't have to do that I reckon you could just undo ET165ES, having eyeballed where the nuts ET175 are. This however would be a good time to switch to the later pattern valve lifter with an adjustment between the two arms (ET166/1), and to buy a valve-lifter assembly from Vinparts (Russell Kemp) which doesn't leak. The standard pattern does, new seals or no, unless modified. Neatest way is to fit a seal (inside a bored ET169) which seals on ET165ES, retained by a peened plate. (Credit to the club astronomer here...) Often the reason the kickstart ratchet slips is because the bush G101 is worn allowing G46 to tilt and "peel" itself out of engagement. Don't ask how I know this. Mine was worn to a cylinder of Oilite foil... If it sits square it'll grip even when the teeth appear completely knackered to the casual eye. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
oil loss at valve lifter
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