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oil loss at valve lifter

motoholic

Forum Website User
VOC Member
Preparing my Rapide for this season ( late enough ) I have to replace the starting ratchet.
Having the cover dismantled I will allthough replace the sealings ET 187 of the valve lifter, as the engine looses oill there. Doing this for the first time I would like to get an advice from an experts: will it be necesarry to dismantle the complete timing side, gears etc. or can this been done from outside only loosening the cable ?

Regards

motoholic
 

bmetcalf

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VOC Member
He may chime in here, but a US member was recently able to stretch the rubber seals over the head of the rod. They were fresh and I believe he used some lubrication.
 

stumpy lord

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VOC Member
Hi,
if you intend fitting standard seals they will stretch over the rod end with out problems. how ever if you want to fit a rusell kemp moded oil seal, you will have to go into the timing gear as the seal fits on the inside of the timing case. This is however a fit and forget mod , and in my opinion well worth doing.
cheers,


stumpy lord
sorry I meant to say with out problems
 
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Alan J

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VOC Member
I'll put up with the oil leak till I have to delve into the case-not a pleasant job!:confused::confused:
 

Ducdude

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VOC Member
Motoholic,

As Bruce said I am the American Chap that just did this 2 weeks ago on my Shadow..I got two new seals from the spares co. and with a bit of grease and a hooked probe just GENTLY pulled them over the end and bob's you uncle. I also filled the tube the seals move in with heavy grease to hold back any errant oil mist that may get past the seals..The grease also helps the seals, seal and keeps them nice and lubed.

That said I also have a Russell Kemp molded oil seal kit at the ready for the next time I am in the timing case...I am still suffering from the stress the last time I was in there so it may be a while...I only have 50 or so miles on the the new seals and it seems they are holding just fine..

As an added note..I also had oil leaking from under the dynamo in that area that had to be addressed. It seems that the ET164 was not installed at some point and I missed it on reassembly. I also had a bit to much oil in the primary case, due to blow by as my rings and valve seats and seals are still running in after sitting for 40 years with only 7K miles on them....It may take a while...I mention this as fixing the valve lifter cable port alone would not have fixed this in my case..

If you have any questions please let me know...

Ciao,
Eric
 

Tom Gaynor

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VOC Member
You need partially to dismantle it. It'll be easier (assuming you don't have the services of a Stevenage-trained bonsai octopus) to take the steady plate off, making sure that you've accounted for any shims adhering to the back of the plate.... then put a paint mark across all the timing gears so that IF you need to remove one, you don't have to retime.
I set a valve lifter up at the weekend, but had to take the rear lifter arm off to replace the roller. This complicated matters. If you don't have to do that I reckon you could just undo ET165ES, having eyeballed where the nuts ET175 are. This however would be a good time to switch to the later pattern valve lifter with an adjustment between the two arms (ET166/1), and to buy a valve-lifter assembly from Vinparts (Russell Kemp) which doesn't leak. The standard pattern does, new seals or no, unless modified. Neatest way is to fit a seal (inside a bored ET169) which seals on ET165ES, retained by a peened plate. (Credit to the club astronomer here...)

Often the reason the kickstart ratchet slips is because the bush G101 is worn allowing G46 to tilt and "peel" itself out of engagement. Don't ask how I know this. Mine was worn to a cylinder of Oilite foil... If it sits square it'll grip even when the teeth appear completely knackered to the casual eye.
 

Len Matthews

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VOC Member
PA130004.jpgAt risk of repetition, we've been over this subject quite recently. Not only is the condition of the seals important but so is the spring ET129. This must be strong enough to pull the seals against their seating. As mentioned before, there have been instances where the spring has been left in situ when the crankcase has been heated up for main bearing renewal, etc. thereby destroying the temper.(See photo) A free running cable is another essential.
 
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motoholic

Forum Website User
VOC Member
Thank you for your advices

Thank you all for the good advices until now. Beside this I looked into all the available books the last evenings and decided to try it from outside first as Eric did. From my experience I will add a little bit : I will cook the rubber rings in water first to make them more flexible. Maybe, if I will find something suitable, I will prepare a little tool from thin aluminium tube ( Pen / parker... ) to pre-stain the rings amd than : oil and good luck for me ( It would have been better to order 4 or more instead of 2 I assume... ) .
Filling up ET 168 with grease is a good idea. Will help until august..september ...? But better than leaving it as it is.
ET 129 ( something you don't think about at first ) and the Russel Kemp seal kit will have to wait until next ocasion.

I wish you all clean boots.
motoholic
 

John Cone

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VOC Member
If a bike didn't have a drip of oil it would not be British. Good point on the return spring being weakened Len, may change it when i get round to putting my modified seal in.
 
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