G: Gearbox (Other - Albion, AMC, Norton etc.) Norton Box: Q- Final Drive Ratio's Comet?

Jez Nemeth

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I think that's entirely possible -we're only talking a smidge annoyingly. Problem might be distortion when thinning the bridge points, I suspect that's why these Plates are not lightened, stupidly I didn't even consider the possibility of trimming it when putting it back in.

Next time!
 
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Chris Launders

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Looking at the pictures of the cam plates earlier in the post (where it compares standard and reverse) yo might be able to do it to the left of the 1st gear indent on the standard plate without any weakening.

I will have a look at the possibility if I have enough bits to experiment.
 

Jez Nemeth

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Decided to buy 'factory gaskets' on this occasion, so while waiting for the post to arrive, got curious and pulled the gear clusters out again.

Apologise for the awful photographs Chris, but there certainly is room behind 4th gear (standard plate) to remove enough material, keep rigidity and not compromise the guide channels.

Issue is the three dog teeth that face into the box on the mainshaft sleeve gear, getting over those could be the deal breaker.

But the more I look at it, a clean cut across the cam to get it past the main cog, with possibly a minor notch or two to get the Cam pass the dog teeth under the right final drive alignment would do it.

May be easier than that, just a straight cut, but rather look for a solution to most difficult scenario first and work backwards -but yes it's quite possible, and do-able - good supposition mate!
 

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Jez Nemeth

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Other fly in the ointment might be the 'camplate shaft' there's certainly room for it to clear the mainshaft -sorry not sure of the jargon on that one -may have to shorten it by a few thou to make the job easier..?
 
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Mike 40M

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Probably you all know.
Top of slot in inner cover might need filing as it can obstruct full movement of the arm of the quadrant.
The tiny vent hole must be clean preventing the gearchange stop plate from rusting.
To renew a kickstart shaft bush a fairly big tap (from fading memory possibly a M18x1.5) can be be used to extract the old one.
 

Jez Nemeth

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I'd wondered about restriction on the quadrant lever arm -partly from seeing some very worn Cam Plates on ebay, that makes sense and worth removing some material for longevity of use.
 

rapide049

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I'd wondered about restriction on the quadrant lever arm -partly from seeing some very worn Cam Plates on ebay, that makes sense and worth removing some material for longevity of use.
Can you take off in 1st ?? and what is your final Ratio , 19 T front - 46 T rear ?? thanks
 

Jez Nemeth

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On a Comet, so it's no sprint race launch -1st good -and will pull off up a steep hill.

Final ratio is 18T front 48T rear -will run at 70mph on the motorway, but 55-60mph comfortable -1000 miles into the running in period, so another 1000 to go until I can open it up fully. Have a 19T wanting to try for big roads, but suspect will be under geared.

Put together a belt drive system for it, using a machine pulley front and an aftermarket Commando belt toothed light weight clutch basket, the clutch action is absolutely superb -and there is some 'give' in the belt due to the shrouding of synthetic rubber around the cables, so it's not a harsh change- I digress, importantly, it retains the original Comet Primary ratios exactly. As far as I can see it's earlier AMC Commando/Atlas box -but suspect gears are totally standard. Yes it is nice -box is good, and has a mix of 80/90 GL4 and grease in it...been good as gold..

Had considered trying the same ratio of final sprockets, 19/46 -will likely do that once run in -may be marginally better at higher speeds I suspect, and still retain acceleration at lower end.

If I was running a chopped twin be considering a 21T front final...
 
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