I've never heard of a B-TH 'going bad', so I may have set a precedent.
Last year as I was moving from one shop to another the last thing in the old shop was my '54 Shadow and I must have kicked it for half an hour to get it started, never had such a serious problem. I had no tools in the shop at all, so just kicked until it fired.
Upon inspection I DID find oil had seeped down a plug wire, through the now supple spark wire caps and into the bottom where the wire attaches to the coil(s). So I thought oil on a plug wire was my problem.
I ordered new coils and wire and paid very close attention, I hope, as to how to unhook the old and install the new without mixing up the wires.
Just tried to start the bike, and seemingly not getting any spark. All alone I can kick the machine over with no plugs and hold a spark plug to the head. I have a center stand now that allows me to stand next to the machine and kick it through. I've held the plug to the head, put my finger on the electrode(s) and no spark. I tried both plugs and am sure they were grounded as I kicked. I've done this previously years ago with a helper and did get spark
Suggestions?
Second, if I do have to remove the unit I wish to ask the group for some advice please. It has been well over ten years since I installed the unit, have had it out once and used my degree wheel, etc. to re-install.
I don't recall the exact procedure, but do remember there is a 'pin,' that one drops into a hole in the shaft when everything is timed as it should be.
Can I do the following: Turn the engine over until I find the hole in the shaft, drop the pin in and remove the unit...am trying not to re-time the whole plot if in fact the B-TH needs work. Can I get it 180 degrees out of phase easily?
And/or, can use your suggestions as how to remove the unit and be able to re-install without using a degree wheel, etc.
I think I can just take off the ATD cover, then the drive gear and the three bolts that hold the unit in place.
I did unhook my kill switch wire just in case it may have been shorting out (where it passes through my handlebars, it runs
inside them) and still no spark.
I just don't have enough knowledge to know how to test the BT-H, so need some assistance.
Thanks in advance.
Best,
Carl Hungness
Last year as I was moving from one shop to another the last thing in the old shop was my '54 Shadow and I must have kicked it for half an hour to get it started, never had such a serious problem. I had no tools in the shop at all, so just kicked until it fired.
Upon inspection I DID find oil had seeped down a plug wire, through the now supple spark wire caps and into the bottom where the wire attaches to the coil(s). So I thought oil on a plug wire was my problem.
I ordered new coils and wire and paid very close attention, I hope, as to how to unhook the old and install the new without mixing up the wires.
Just tried to start the bike, and seemingly not getting any spark. All alone I can kick the machine over with no plugs and hold a spark plug to the head. I have a center stand now that allows me to stand next to the machine and kick it through. I've held the plug to the head, put my finger on the electrode(s) and no spark. I tried both plugs and am sure they were grounded as I kicked. I've done this previously years ago with a helper and did get spark
Suggestions?
Second, if I do have to remove the unit I wish to ask the group for some advice please. It has been well over ten years since I installed the unit, have had it out once and used my degree wheel, etc. to re-install.
I don't recall the exact procedure, but do remember there is a 'pin,' that one drops into a hole in the shaft when everything is timed as it should be.
Can I do the following: Turn the engine over until I find the hole in the shaft, drop the pin in and remove the unit...am trying not to re-time the whole plot if in fact the B-TH needs work. Can I get it 180 degrees out of phase easily?
And/or, can use your suggestions as how to remove the unit and be able to re-install without using a degree wheel, etc.
I think I can just take off the ATD cover, then the drive gear and the three bolts that hold the unit in place.
I did unhook my kill switch wire just in case it may have been shorting out (where it passes through my handlebars, it runs
inside them) and still no spark.
I just don't have enough knowledge to know how to test the BT-H, so need some assistance.
Thanks in advance.
Best,
Carl Hungness
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