Modern fuels (additives)?
- Thread starter vince998
- Start date
I had my tank on the Prince resprayed and internally coated with petseal but have noticed that it's getting sticky around the inside of the neck. I decided to leave it alone and to be safe fit an inline fuel filter. Thats just another job on the list.
Slightly highjacking the thread, but still to do with modern fuels. What paint does everybody use to paint fuel tanks today? Painted my Dad's A Comet tank last year with 2K paint and after 9 months standing we poured petrol into the tank, spilt some on the outside and the paint reacted to the petrol and appears to have gone soft and crinkled. So tank needs respraying.
Any suggestions. Looking at going to cellulose, but haven't used that for years. Thought it had been banned, but it is still available.
Cheers,
Simon.
Any suggestions. Looking at going to cellulose, but haven't used that for years. Thought it had been banned, but it is still available.
Cheers,
Simon.
I´ve just had some interesting info from our Reinhard Augustine who just happens to own a filling station and has regular contact with fuel technicians.
Apparently, the fuels containing vegetable based alchohols become infected with bacteria whilst still in the ground tanks. A lot of filling stations only clean their tanks and pipes every 2 years!!
To avoid the vegetable stuff, you need to always tank Super plus (as suggested by Bill) as this apparently doesn´t contain any. (This could maybe cure your sticky filler neck John?)
Apparently, the fuels containing vegetable based alchohols become infected with bacteria whilst still in the ground tanks. A lot of filling stations only clean their tanks and pipes every 2 years!!
To avoid the vegetable stuff, you need to always tank Super plus (as suggested by Bill) as this apparently doesn´t contain any. (This could maybe cure your sticky filler neck John?)
Tig welded the tank, and it is now sealed with a 2 pack sealant.
The tank was filled with a water soluble de-rusting agent and ceramic stones (similar the the stones used for industrial deburring)
It was the well wrapped in blankets and attached to the front of a cement mixer and rotated for 8 hours total (changing the attitude of the tank every 2 hours so as to reach every internal part)
Inspected internally with a bore camera and found to be spotless.
Sealed once again, and pressure tested (just in case de-rusting revealed any new holes) Everything good.
De-greased, and treated with a primer/rust preventer and allowed to dry for 2 days by 40°
2 pack sealant mixed, poured in and well rotated for 1/2 hour to reach every part of the tank (it´s a pretty complicated shape in there!!)
Pour out the excess and it´s now drying in my heating cellar and will stay there the next 2 weeks.
Thanks to all for your comment/Advice.
Report to follow after the German rally (and maybe the Austrian if places are still free)
The tank was filled with a water soluble de-rusting agent and ceramic stones (similar the the stones used for industrial deburring)
It was the well wrapped in blankets and attached to the front of a cement mixer and rotated for 8 hours total (changing the attitude of the tank every 2 hours so as to reach every internal part)
Inspected internally with a bore camera and found to be spotless.
Sealed once again, and pressure tested (just in case de-rusting revealed any new holes) Everything good.
De-greased, and treated with a primer/rust preventer and allowed to dry for 2 days by 40°
2 pack sealant mixed, poured in and well rotated for 1/2 hour to reach every part of the tank (it´s a pretty complicated shape in there!!)
Pour out the excess and it´s now drying in my heating cellar and will stay there the next 2 weeks.
Thanks to all for your comment/Advice.
Report to follow after the German rally (and maybe the Austrian if places are still free)
I used POR 15 sealant from Frosts in my tank when a pin-hole leak appeared AFTER it was painted. Bloody typical...there was no leak before. I didn't clean the inside of the tank with anything other than petrol, and it is still good four or five years, and 10,000 miles, later. Although occasionally it has been treated to a dose of Avgas (left over from racing) 99% of the fuel used has been cooking lead free. I don't think the tank was rusty inside anyway, but one positive side-effect is that the finished result looks galvanised, reflects light, so it's easy to see what the fuel level is.
I have to do another tank soon, so will use the same stuff, but with Frost's Marine Clean and Metal Prep first. ( My experience has been that one should NOT plug the petrol tap bosses, but let it drain to avoid puddles, and run a BSP tap through afterwards.)
I have to do another tank soon, so will use the same stuff, but with Frost's Marine Clean and Metal Prep first. ( My experience has been that one should NOT plug the petrol tap bosses, but let it drain to avoid puddles, and run a BSP tap through afterwards.)