The pivot for the rear of the link is lower by 19 mm and back 10 mm.......This puts the 2 links near parallel to one another save a half to one mm........remember this set up does away with the eccentrics so becomes concentric, this is why when you look at the spring rates for the new springs the figures seem low, but the upper attachment is now further forward, thus the spring has a greater affect. If the bike is set up with too much pre load, the bike will sit at or near topped out.......this will make the bike feel odd, and you will get a clunk coming from the front due to the shocker topping out, not the suspension bottoming........with no weight on the bike the lower link should be absolutely no higher than level, and preferably slightly up at the nose........This can all vary a bit depending on what shocker you use, mostly........I generally run 2 x 45 Lb springs on a twin, and either one 45 and one 36 in a single, or even 2 x 36 on a single with a light rider........i also use very soft shock absorbers, as many of the others are way too stiff........If the front end tends to be a bit "wandery" at low speed, the following are the most likely causes........Loose head stem bearings, or if a race is not seated correctly in its pocket (this is more common than you migh think).......Loose front wheel/axle assembly, and/or too much play in the front wheel bearings.........also a crooked rim and/or poorly fitted tire not sitting on the rim correctly........another syptom of this which I find on probably 50% of bikes that come here........The rear drive chain is too tight........very common if the back suspension has been jacked up with longer springs........very important to sit on the bike, or moreso if you ride 2 up.......then check the chain tension........so many are way too tight.......This makes the bike feel very odd on the road.......not to mention the damage to hub bearings and gearbox output bearing. Just for the record.......in the entire time I have had the stem kit on my Rapide, I have had probably 3 occasions where the front end has had a shimmy generally over some sort of rut on a corner, some at quite high speed, and mostly 2 up........The bars do shake perhaps a couple of times, but immediately settles back down to normal........At no time does it ever give me any reason to feel suspect of its behaviour at all..........Do not assume that because you have installed the kit, that all is done and you have the perfect bike.......It can take some experimenting with springs and pre loads to fine tune the front end........The change in shock absorber can be a major game changer too........Anyone who installs the kit without having to shorten the springs will find 90% of the time that the front will be topped out........this is not good.......remove at least one spring and shorten it by 2 or 3 coils and try it again......It is absolutely critical that the front spring cases can telescope freely within each other to maximum travel with no binding.........If you use some of the newly available lower spring cases in an original pair or uppers, they will jam badly and gawl up terribly, due to the tube diamentions not being the same........If the cases bind up this will drastically inhibit the behavour of the front forks, and the front will feel terrible and stiff.........clean the case inners out thoroughly with some good solvent and a good sized bottle brush........do this many times to get all the old grease and grit out of them.........Shortening the inner and outer cases by 15 odd mm helps here a lot especially if the edges of the cases have worn to a knife edge...........All good fun........the new ride will definately be worth it........I always install a hydraulic steering damper even though I feel it is not absolutely necessary........Only Norman knows how many of these kits I've done now........I've lost track.........Cheers.
