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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Lucas KVF Rebuild - UK Recommendations?
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 178957" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Last night I had another look into my modded Vertex mags, seems I tried a few positions of pole flip points for having nearly same strength sparks at both wires. So one point is a bit early and the other quite late for optimum power but it is quite allright for me like it is. </p><p> As to these radii on the Lucas mag cam rings I do not think they matter much: As you can see in my photo above the two diameters are 40 and 42 mm , so only 1 mm step. There cannot remain much of radius there and remember you set the breaker gap at around 0.4mm so the breaker heel will be 0.6mm above the 42mm face and will hit that radius quite high up and never touch the radius at its lower section. So my idea , get an end mill with 8 or 10 mm , and see what that does for a bit of a flat remaining instead of a certain radius. You get better accuracy with a bit of flat milled than forcing an end mill into a corner position. So you would have the end mill at first position at the black circle top left in my photo for milling the 42mm diameter and stop at that leftmost position. Then feed straight down in line away from upper radius towards the bottom position of lower black circle and do a length of 42mm diameter in the bottom part of cam ring. That would produce the opening and closing ramp with a bit of flat slope I guess.</p><p> For the two positions at left side you´d mark the 360 degrees scale on the dividing head with a "zero" arrow with felt pen so for second operation you will use that arrow for rotating the 205 degrees position for the v-twin timing and do same milling like you did at the zero first position. But this is just my idea while sleepless in bed at night, real life at the mill may present some more challenges to think about. </p><p> When supply of good cam rings looks poor it might be worthwhile to try reconditioning worn camrings and getting end mills suitable for 60 HRC just for licking up the opening ramp, the rest will do with Dremel polishing a bit. It was amazing to see how the special carbide end mill survived my two welded up ESA cams , 6 cams for 2 bikes, milled in hundreds of little steps. Still that 12 mm end mill shows no wear at all, so this may be worth a try . </p><p> I was posting sizes of diameters and breaker gaps and all in metric units, for metric sparks certainly. So for engines requiring imperial sparks you´d have to convert to imperial sizes of course , so on the mill the DRO needs to be put in imperial mode ?? . . . . .</p><p></p><p> Vic</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 178957, member: 1493"] Last night I had another look into my modded Vertex mags, seems I tried a few positions of pole flip points for having nearly same strength sparks at both wires. So one point is a bit early and the other quite late for optimum power but it is quite allright for me like it is. As to these radii on the Lucas mag cam rings I do not think they matter much: As you can see in my photo above the two diameters are 40 and 42 mm , so only 1 mm step. There cannot remain much of radius there and remember you set the breaker gap at around 0.4mm so the breaker heel will be 0.6mm above the 42mm face and will hit that radius quite high up and never touch the radius at its lower section. So my idea , get an end mill with 8 or 10 mm , and see what that does for a bit of a flat remaining instead of a certain radius. You get better accuracy with a bit of flat milled than forcing an end mill into a corner position. So you would have the end mill at first position at the black circle top left in my photo for milling the 42mm diameter and stop at that leftmost position. Then feed straight down in line away from upper radius towards the bottom position of lower black circle and do a length of 42mm diameter in the bottom part of cam ring. That would produce the opening and closing ramp with a bit of flat slope I guess. For the two positions at left side you´d mark the 360 degrees scale on the dividing head with a "zero" arrow with felt pen so for second operation you will use that arrow for rotating the 205 degrees position for the v-twin timing and do same milling like you did at the zero first position. But this is just my idea while sleepless in bed at night, real life at the mill may present some more challenges to think about. When supply of good cam rings looks poor it might be worthwhile to try reconditioning worn camrings and getting end mills suitable for 60 HRC just for licking up the opening ramp, the rest will do with Dremel polishing a bit. It was amazing to see how the special carbide end mill survived my two welded up ESA cams , 6 cams for 2 bikes, milled in hundreds of little steps. Still that 12 mm end mill shows no wear at all, so this may be worth a try . I was posting sizes of diameters and breaker gaps and all in metric units, for metric sparks certainly. So for engines requiring imperial sparks you´d have to convert to imperial sizes of course , so on the mill the DRO needs to be put in imperial mode ?? . . . . . Vic [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Lucas KVF Rebuild - UK Recommendations?
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