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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Leak down test
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<blockquote data-quote="Bill Cannon" data-source="post: 125278" data-attributes="member: 152"><p>A while ago I noticed that the rear carb was not pulling as strongly as the front on my TPV 1200 egli. Tested by putting my hand over the bellmouth.</p><p></p><p>I borrowed the leakdown tester from work. I have never used one before and struggled to get any meaningful results at first. I realised that I was not doing the set up procedure properly. This sorted I got an excellent result on the front cylinder and a very poor one, about 70% on the rear. I didn't have a suitable piece of hose to detect where the leak was from.</p><p></p><p>So today proceeded to remove the rear head. This was made very difficult because one of the TP split cylinder studs did not want to come apart. I eventually managed this by raising barrel and head enough to get mole grips on the very bottom of the stud and then freed the top half. </p><p></p><p>Does anyone know the thread of the joint in the studs? I need locking nuts to tighten them again.</p><p></p><p>Anyway, head now off, see photos below. There's a lot of carbon in there for a new top end that's only done about a 1000 miles. Has that got to be oil or can an over rich mixture cause that, any thoughts?</p><p></p><p>Too hot to do anymore today so valves out tomorrow and see what they look like.</p><p></p><p>Cheers Bill</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bill Cannon, post: 125278, member: 152"] A while ago I noticed that the rear carb was not pulling as strongly as the front on my TPV 1200 egli. Tested by putting my hand over the bellmouth. I borrowed the leakdown tester from work. I have never used one before and struggled to get any meaningful results at first. I realised that I was not doing the set up procedure properly. This sorted I got an excellent result on the front cylinder and a very poor one, about 70% on the rear. I didn't have a suitable piece of hose to detect where the leak was from. So today proceeded to remove the rear head. This was made very difficult because one of the TP split cylinder studs did not want to come apart. I eventually managed this by raising barrel and head enough to get mole grips on the very bottom of the stud and then freed the top half. Does anyone know the thread of the joint in the studs? I need locking nuts to tighten them again. Anyway, head now off, see photos below. There's a lot of carbon in there for a new top end that's only done about a 1000 miles. Has that got to be oil or can an over rich mixture cause that, any thoughts? Too hot to do anymore today so valves out tomorrow and see what they look like. Cheers Bill [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Leak down test
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