It runs!!!!!

1660bob

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Hi All. After seven years of rebuilding, finally fuelled up my `C` Shadow yesterday and went for the start.....

Points to note:
Despite meticulous care throughout the rebuild,still managed to plumb in the plug leads wrong way round-hence much head scratching as it refused to start on my roller starter, an occasional backfire whilst cranking the motor got me suspicious, yep, I had managed to cross the leads behind the steering damper bracket! -Doh.
It fired straight away,yipee!!, but,once started, clouds of blue smoke and oil pumping copiously out of the breather showed me just how much even a newly built Vin can sump whilst stood- I thought it may need to clear itself a little as the tank level was down,inexperience makes it hard to judge,but this was crazy.I stopped the bike and drained no less than 2L of oil from the cases!Holy Moly........
Fired it up again and the smoke began to clear....... first time its run since probably the mid 60`s .....carbs are original 229/289 and boy do they drip..... not so much the front one, but the rear-drip ,drip, drip-are they really this bad?-do the new ones drip like this?
Ran it on and off for a while yesterday afternoon whilst i adjusted the carbs , and got it running pretty good.
Any way, slightly more concerning were tiny particles of alloy in the oil from the cases, Hmm, not lots, but noticeable. Definately alloy, - a magnet would not attract them. May be just initial start up detritus, but the build was surgically clean, and the oil tank cleaned out-and I mean clean-camera in etc etc, so I`m puzzled...... Took off the timing cover just to check it all out-everything fine in there, no alloy shards, so I`m none the wiser.......any ideas?
If the rear carb does not improve, I wonder if fitting one of the new plastic floats may help-i.e. a bit lighter and more buoyant than the original copper soldered job, which, whilst it seems sound, is a bit unconvincing in the way it floats in its bowl.I wonder if the new floats would apply a little more pressure to the (new)needle valve??
Any ideas?, Bob.
 

roy the mechanic

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
If you are concerned about the float's bouancy, immerse it in warm water, if punctured a stream of bubbles will be observed. Don't bother trying to solder it, it's almost impossible. With luck, the particles may have come from the oil banjo bolts on assemly. Roy.
 

Albervin

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VOC Member
Where exactly is the petrol dripping? The fibre washers take a little time to bed in and need a light nipping up after their initial soaking in fuel. If fuel is coming from the pilot jet then it is flooding so check the float for leaks. I actually repaired the float on my old Douglas but was very careful to remove all petrol from inside it first:eek: If you continue to find metal sparkles in the oil check your filter and clean/replace if necessary.
 

1660bob

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks for the replies All. Tried the float in hot water-fine,tried Rays tip of a slight twist on the stub and the drip stopped immediately- good call Ray.I had the carb set dead plumb,and just a little tweak a couple of degrees clockwise to lower the float chamber a whisker sorted it- course it still drips if on the side stand but I understand the deal now- eventually they developed Concentrics!! Sorting annoying weeps at the banjo joints is not always straight forward,but I`ll get there. As for the alloy in the oil, a couple more samples are showing much less already, so i suspect initial start up detritus.Now to get it registered at DVLA- well there`s fun.............Bob.
 
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