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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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<blockquote data-quote="macvette" data-source="post: 99990" data-attributes="member: 262"><p>The hex bar which mounts the pivot is that length for two reasons. First the operating arm needs to clear the concentrics on the girdraulics which are lower on the new steering stem than on the original and at full left lock, the damper body.Secondly it is drilled and tapped to take the button head bolt on which the damper is pivoted. I could shorten it by about 5mm but this would leave less material between the end of the internal thread and the transition to the male thread which screws into the UFM.</p><p>On the girdraulics, I found that either the damper eye on full right lock or the damper rod on left lock were dangerously close to the spring boxes if the damper was allowed to rotate too much wrt to the steering. Also the is a potential clash with the front exhaust valve cap when this happens. Thats why I went to a centre pivot on the damper body. I suspect that your set up will have issues with girdraulics both with the spring boxes and the valve cap.</p><p>I'm not concerned with bending stresses because this is a pin jointed mechanism so with the exception of the frame anchor, these are negligible and your set up uses the same anchor point.</p><p>Regards Mac</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="macvette, post: 99990, member: 262"] The hex bar which mounts the pivot is that length for two reasons. First the operating arm needs to clear the concentrics on the girdraulics which are lower on the new steering stem than on the original and at full left lock, the damper body.Secondly it is drilled and tapped to take the button head bolt on which the damper is pivoted. I could shorten it by about 5mm but this would leave less material between the end of the internal thread and the transition to the male thread which screws into the UFM. On the girdraulics, I found that either the damper eye on full right lock or the damper rod on left lock were dangerously close to the spring boxes if the damper was allowed to rotate too much wrt to the steering. Also the is a potential clash with the front exhaust valve cap when this happens. Thats why I went to a centre pivot on the damper body. I suspect that your set up will have issues with girdraulics both with the spring boxes and the valve cap. I'm not concerned with bending stresses because this is a pin jointed mechanism so with the exception of the frame anchor, these are negligible and your set up uses the same anchor point. Regards Mac [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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