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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 99565" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Ron,</p><p>you could add some screws to bolt the alu lever onto the stem disc - same with the new timetraveller steering stem so my idea can be used there as well. That will ease your mind but in reality I do not think this will ever have to be done. The olde friction system was mostly effective enough with only minimal force applied as any more force would cause stiction and unprecise lines on the road. So thinking of that I am inclined to add that China damper onto most of my classics that have just the friction. The big bonus with hydraulics is you can have a heavy setting to prevent all flutter from first start but still keep the smooth steering not to spoil your lines. I only guess a fully nipped up alu lever of the China set via the old friction knob will easily apply sufficient gripping force to never slip as it prevents all fierce motion from the start and broken ankles may have been not the result of extreme force but from the fast motion that slaps arms when resonance has built up so much. I have thought about adding an indexing item to the alu lever: The Brampton has a slot in the bottom diameter of the stem about 3.4mm wide. I filed that to exact 4mm and the alu plate could be slot milled or filed for 4mm and a key added, so no drilling to be done. But drilling is much easier. I did a file job - remember myself retired toolmaker, that´s why . . . Yes, a counter sunk screw or two would be allright instead, certainly, for feeling better anyway. And in case of the new steering stem only fixing screws were suitable, just same with the present long alu lever, believing that costs and hassle would come down a bit in cases of minimal space for that kind of add-ons. The small o-rings shown in the video clips are just there to stabilize the assembly a bit from wobbling about the mounting bolts, not essential otherwise.</p><p> As to changing settings while riding, I think most people will keep their setting all year once a decent setting is made. I have the BMW damper on all of the 46 years I got the bike, but it is only a weak damper, non adjustible, on or off. I would no way want to have the damper on top of the fork for spoiling the looks on a classic !!</p><p> Anyway, I hope my idea was easier to copy in one´s home shed than the trickier long lever of the present design with its not so clearly to understand motions from lock to lock.</p><p></p><p> Vic</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 99565, member: 1493"] Ron, you could add some screws to bolt the alu lever onto the stem disc - same with the new timetraveller steering stem so my idea can be used there as well. That will ease your mind but in reality I do not think this will ever have to be done. The olde friction system was mostly effective enough with only minimal force applied as any more force would cause stiction and unprecise lines on the road. So thinking of that I am inclined to add that China damper onto most of my classics that have just the friction. The big bonus with hydraulics is you can have a heavy setting to prevent all flutter from first start but still keep the smooth steering not to spoil your lines. I only guess a fully nipped up alu lever of the China set via the old friction knob will easily apply sufficient gripping force to never slip as it prevents all fierce motion from the start and broken ankles may have been not the result of extreme force but from the fast motion that slaps arms when resonance has built up so much. I have thought about adding an indexing item to the alu lever: The Brampton has a slot in the bottom diameter of the stem about 3.4mm wide. I filed that to exact 4mm and the alu plate could be slot milled or filed for 4mm and a key added, so no drilling to be done. But drilling is much easier. I did a file job - remember myself retired toolmaker, that´s why . . . Yes, a counter sunk screw or two would be allright instead, certainly, for feeling better anyway. And in case of the new steering stem only fixing screws were suitable, just same with the present long alu lever, believing that costs and hassle would come down a bit in cases of minimal space for that kind of add-ons. The small o-rings shown in the video clips are just there to stabilize the assembly a bit from wobbling about the mounting bolts, not essential otherwise. As to changing settings while riding, I think most people will keep their setting all year once a decent setting is made. I have the BMW damper on all of the 46 years I got the bike, but it is only a weak damper, non adjustible, on or off. I would no way want to have the damper on top of the fork for spoiling the looks on a classic !! Anyway, I hope my idea was easier to copy in one´s home shed than the trickier long lever of the present design with its not so clearly to understand motions from lock to lock. Vic [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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