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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 99544" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>So I found a few pictures of steering dampers to ease some minds when looking at my version of pushing the cylinder instead of the rod. There are numerous kits for bikes that show a bracket fixed by two bolts that hold the tank on top of the frame. This bracket is the anchor for the "static" rod, the cylinder is bolted onto an extension of the top yoke - so that is same idea like mine which I placed below the yokes, same characteristics of motion. When this is allright for fast Ducatis, so that does it for me. I have added some youtube clips about these versions on modern bikes for comparisons. What I do like is the minimal rotation of the cylinder from lock to lock, very useful when there is not a lot of space for swivelling components with the more common layout. The alu lever in my version can have 57 mm between centres to use all reasonable stroke plus safety . BUT the off-centre bracket in the China set places the whole affair another precious bit to the rear of the fork to give extra space when required but still keeping the same stroke. There are more brackets available from other manufacturers for extra offset if necessary - or DIY.</p><p> I have made some more photos of the Brampton test set to better show clearances from other perspectives, no troubles to be expected, as all the rest of the girder components only go to the front from here. </p><p> When comparing versions I think my proposal is easier to copy as the motion is quite clear to overview, no critically dimensioned long lever to machine (I can imagine all that headscratching to work out this set) and no surprise clashes with rest of bike to expect as the set keeps its alignment quite nicely, no rotating actions in unsuspected places. In case of a mounted crash bar a bracket clamped onto that seems logic as it is close to the anchor bolt for the rod and no big thing to work out : When having the rod pointing to the left side, set the fork to right lock, the rod to full compression minus safety gap, the damper cylinder about right angle to bike centre axis. Now you get the position of the bolt hole on the bracket that I fixed in the sidecar lug - or on the bracket clamped to the crash bar. </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p>Youtube links :</p><p><a href="https://youtu.be/8YRWyN3goEA" target="_blank">Hyperpro damper Honda</a></p><p><a href="https://youtu.be/udrfv05c60U" target="_blank">Ohlins damper Kawasaki</a></p><p><a href="https://youtu.be/auKQj8y5EeY" target="_blank">Matris damper Triumph</a></p><p><a href="https://youtu.be/LXMlwswUPyg" target="_blank">Ohlins Ducati 1198</a></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23752[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23753[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23754[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23755[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23756[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]23757[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 99544, member: 1493"] So I found a few pictures of steering dampers to ease some minds when looking at my version of pushing the cylinder instead of the rod. There are numerous kits for bikes that show a bracket fixed by two bolts that hold the tank on top of the frame. This bracket is the anchor for the "static" rod, the cylinder is bolted onto an extension of the top yoke - so that is same idea like mine which I placed below the yokes, same characteristics of motion. When this is allright for fast Ducatis, so that does it for me. I have added some youtube clips about these versions on modern bikes for comparisons. What I do like is the minimal rotation of the cylinder from lock to lock, very useful when there is not a lot of space for swivelling components with the more common layout. The alu lever in my version can have 57 mm between centres to use all reasonable stroke plus safety . BUT the off-centre bracket in the China set places the whole affair another precious bit to the rear of the fork to give extra space when required but still keeping the same stroke. There are more brackets available from other manufacturers for extra offset if necessary - or DIY. I have made some more photos of the Brampton test set to better show clearances from other perspectives, no troubles to be expected, as all the rest of the girder components only go to the front from here. When comparing versions I think my proposal is easier to copy as the motion is quite clear to overview, no critically dimensioned long lever to machine (I can imagine all that headscratching to work out this set) and no surprise clashes with rest of bike to expect as the set keeps its alignment quite nicely, no rotating actions in unsuspected places. In case of a mounted crash bar a bracket clamped onto that seems logic as it is close to the anchor bolt for the rod and no big thing to work out : When having the rod pointing to the left side, set the fork to right lock, the rod to full compression minus safety gap, the damper cylinder about right angle to bike centre axis. Now you get the position of the bolt hole on the bracket that I fixed in the sidecar lug - or on the bracket clamped to the crash bar. Vic Youtube links : [URL='https://youtu.be/8YRWyN3goEA']Hyperpro damper Honda[/URL] [URL='https://youtu.be/udrfv05c60U']Ohlins damper Kawasaki[/URL] [URL='https://youtu.be/auKQj8y5EeY']Matris damper Triumph[/URL] [URL='https://youtu.be/LXMlwswUPyg']Ohlins Ducati 1198[/URL] [ATTACH=full]23752[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]23753[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]23754[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]23755[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]23756[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]23757[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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