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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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<blockquote data-quote="timetraveller" data-source="post: 99493" data-attributes="member: 456"><p>No Vic, it is the other way round. You are correct that 40 degrees is when the forks are about fully ahead but if you look at the graph again you will see that there is about 13 mm of movement of the damper rod for each 5+ degrees each side of that. That value of 13 reduces to about 9 or 10 at each end of the stroke, i.e. at full lock either way. That means that the system is most effective straight ahead, just like your system.</p><p></p><p>Please note that I designed this system specifically to work with the new John Emmanuel type steering heads. With this design the base of the steering head is about 25 mm lower that with the standard set up and is not specifically designed to work with the original friction damper. An original type damper can be used but it requires some ingenuity. So far as I know only two people have used the original type of damper with the new steering heads. One was a bike that Greg converted for one of his customers but which was later converted to a hydraulic damper. The other is Mike Hawthorn who races (very successfully) in a class where hydraulic steering dampers are not allowed. The base of the new steering heads is supplied with three M6 holes drilled and tapped into it and my design was intended to use those holes.</p><p></p><p>Your design is very ingenious but at first glance it just looks wrong to be moving the damper body rather than the damper rod. However, I really cannot see why there should be any problem with it. It is just like Macvette wrote, every other bike which I/we have seen moves the rod rather than the body of the damper and there might be a reason for that .</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="timetraveller, post: 99493, member: 456"] No Vic, it is the other way round. You are correct that 40 degrees is when the forks are about fully ahead but if you look at the graph again you will see that there is about 13 mm of movement of the damper rod for each 5+ degrees each side of that. That value of 13 reduces to about 9 or 10 at each end of the stroke, i.e. at full lock either way. That means that the system is most effective straight ahead, just like your system. Please note that I designed this system specifically to work with the new John Emmanuel type steering heads. With this design the base of the steering head is about 25 mm lower that with the standard set up and is not specifically designed to work with the original friction damper. An original type damper can be used but it requires some ingenuity. So far as I know only two people have used the original type of damper with the new steering heads. One was a bike that Greg converted for one of his customers but which was later converted to a hydraulic damper. The other is Mike Hawthorn who races (very successfully) in a class where hydraulic steering dampers are not allowed. The base of the new steering heads is supplied with three M6 holes drilled and tapped into it and my design was intended to use those holes. Your design is very ingenious but at first glance it just looks wrong to be moving the damper body rather than the damper rod. However, I really cannot see why there should be any problem with it. It is just like Macvette wrote, every other bike which I/we have seen moves the rod rather than the body of the damper and there might be a reason for that . [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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