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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 99482" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Norman, when looking into your last diagram, am I right in thinking that when 40 degrees is straight ahead, a deflection of 5 degrees to the left or to the right produces only very moderate stroke on the damper rod ? That was my very first impression when some pictures were posted of your setup on Girdraulics. But I must admit I could not fully figure out what all these components do or behave in real action, my main interest is definitely the range around zero degree. Any flutter or wobble HAS to be prevented right from the start at straight ahead, zero degrees. at maximum effectivity. </p><p> It is obvious from my photos that this is the case when the cylinder is mounted on my type of alu lever and the rod gets its anchor from the sidecar lug beam resp. a bracket on a crash bar. The lever is at 90 degrees to the rod at zero degrees deflection so spot on. Another plus is the bracket that comes with the Chinese set, that places the cylinder ca. 20 mm towards the engine so you gain precious space at full left or right lock. The whole affair is easy to copy , 57 mm distance between centres on the lever leaves almost 5mm safety on both steering locks. </p><p> Then no drilling of fork components is required, the lever is locked with knob , same as with friction discs - which can stay there - and no cracking of levers is to be expected as friction discs will slip. I´d say, try it, I don´t have an interest in producing sets or get patents, just hope it will be a lot easier to fabricate at home with little head scratching .</p><p> When Girdraulics are to be added with a damper, I cannot say much, maybe the eccentrics require a bit more space at full lock, but you will no doubt see for yourself when trying the cylinder on my type of alu lever. The anchor bolt for the rod could be adjusted a bit in that case I guess.</p><p></p><p> Vic</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 99482, member: 1493"] Norman, when looking into your last diagram, am I right in thinking that when 40 degrees is straight ahead, a deflection of 5 degrees to the left or to the right produces only very moderate stroke on the damper rod ? That was my very first impression when some pictures were posted of your setup on Girdraulics. But I must admit I could not fully figure out what all these components do or behave in real action, my main interest is definitely the range around zero degree. Any flutter or wobble HAS to be prevented right from the start at straight ahead, zero degrees. at maximum effectivity. It is obvious from my photos that this is the case when the cylinder is mounted on my type of alu lever and the rod gets its anchor from the sidecar lug beam resp. a bracket on a crash bar. The lever is at 90 degrees to the rod at zero degrees deflection so spot on. Another plus is the bracket that comes with the Chinese set, that places the cylinder ca. 20 mm towards the engine so you gain precious space at full left or right lock. The whole affair is easy to copy , 57 mm distance between centres on the lever leaves almost 5mm safety on both steering locks. Then no drilling of fork components is required, the lever is locked with knob , same as with friction discs - which can stay there - and no cracking of levers is to be expected as friction discs will slip. I´d say, try it, I don´t have an interest in producing sets or get patents, just hope it will be a lot easier to fabricate at home with little head scratching . When Girdraulics are to be added with a damper, I cannot say much, maybe the eccentrics require a bit more space at full lock, but you will no doubt see for yourself when trying the cylinder on my type of alu lever. The anchor bolt for the rod could be adjusted a bit in that case I guess. Vic [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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