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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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<blockquote data-quote="macvette" data-source="post: 99318" data-attributes="member: 262"><p>Hi Vic,</p><p>The damper here is the same as the one I used and later supplied by Norman ( Chinese damper). Vincent's damper looks dimensionally the same but is more sophisticated, acting proportionally, the Chinese one is linear. Nevertheless, their mounted geometries are identical or at least very close. The damper pivot in your link is moveable so can be move from where it is to the centre of the damper body provided that the clamp is fitted so that it doesn't interfere with the damper valve body. The stroke on these dampers is 70mm.</p><p>The fore and aft mounting position needs to be such that the steering stops limit the travel before the damper reaches its limits and that the damper stroke is equally divided each side Of the damper body. The further the damper pivot is behind the centre of the steering stem, the longer the stroke used on the damper so the stroke and damper body pivot point are what determine the fore and aft position. Conversely, mounting the damper pivot closer to the centre of the steering stem reduces the stroke on the damper but increases the damper body rotation.</p><p>I started with an NHK damper whose body mounting ( like the one in your link) is fixed at the end of the damper but gave up trying to find a way of mounting it across the axis of the bike because of various interference issues on my twin even without a crash bar.</p><p>I asked Vincent for some advice and he posted some dimensions for me in the modified steering stem thread. Having got a Chinese damper, I prototyped a few actuating arms using the damper pivot in your link and as used by Norman and the boss for the original damper on the UFM as the hydraulic damper body mounting point. On my first attempt at making a real link ( as opposed to a mock up) to the damper rod and the damper body mounted behind the supplied pivot, I was not happy with the clearance of the damper rod and spring box on full left lock or the clearance of the damper body from the from the front cylinder exhaust cap full left lock.There was clearance but I thought that if I was unlucky enough to have a proper tank slapper I would prefer more so I went with a pivot mounted on the damper body centre line using the boss for original friction damper. Norman and I had quite a bit of correspondence on these issues and I would say that using the original friction damper stop as the mounting point is the way to go with this type of damper.</p><p>Vincent and I posted info and pictures in the modified steering stem thread on this subject.</p><p>Regards Mac</p><p>Forgot to say that my version uses 60mm out of an available 70 mm of stroke 5mm each side</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="macvette, post: 99318, member: 262"] Hi Vic, The damper here is the same as the one I used and later supplied by Norman ( Chinese damper). Vincent's damper looks dimensionally the same but is more sophisticated, acting proportionally, the Chinese one is linear. Nevertheless, their mounted geometries are identical or at least very close. The damper pivot in your link is moveable so can be move from where it is to the centre of the damper body provided that the clamp is fitted so that it doesn't interfere with the damper valve body. The stroke on these dampers is 70mm. The fore and aft mounting position needs to be such that the steering stops limit the travel before the damper reaches its limits and that the damper stroke is equally divided each side Of the damper body. The further the damper pivot is behind the centre of the steering stem, the longer the stroke used on the damper so the stroke and damper body pivot point are what determine the fore and aft position. Conversely, mounting the damper pivot closer to the centre of the steering stem reduces the stroke on the damper but increases the damper body rotation. I started with an NHK damper whose body mounting ( like the one in your link) is fixed at the end of the damper but gave up trying to find a way of mounting it across the axis of the bike because of various interference issues on my twin even without a crash bar. I asked Vincent for some advice and he posted some dimensions for me in the modified steering stem thread. Having got a Chinese damper, I prototyped a few actuating arms using the damper pivot in your link and as used by Norman and the boss for the original damper on the UFM as the hydraulic damper body mounting point. On my first attempt at making a real link ( as opposed to a mock up) to the damper rod and the damper body mounted behind the supplied pivot, I was not happy with the clearance of the damper rod and spring box on full left lock or the clearance of the damper body from the from the front cylinder exhaust cap full left lock.There was clearance but I thought that if I was unlucky enough to have a proper tank slapper I would prefer more so I went with a pivot mounted on the damper body centre line using the boss for original friction damper. Norman and I had quite a bit of correspondence on these issues and I would say that using the original friction damper stop as the mounting point is the way to go with this type of damper. Vincent and I posted info and pictures in the modified steering stem thread on this subject. Regards Mac Forgot to say that my version uses 60mm out of an available 70 mm of stroke 5mm each side [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Hydraulic Steering Damper
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