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hello from a state of disassembly.
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<blockquote data-quote="Tom Gaynor" data-source="post: 7278" data-attributes="member: 4034"><p>I'm a firm believer in "rolling restorations". Put some miles on it - I put about 5000 on mine - and at the end of it you have a clear idea of what needs to be done. Then you get it done. A good example is breathers: it took me quite a long time to realise that the answer to my problems wasn't a new breather system, but to address the problems (piston and valve guide blow-by) that was overwhelming the standard system. Drilling holes in the chaincase inspection cap had the un-anticipated (by me) effect of letting the engine breathe through the chaincase, and rendering ineffective the "real" breather. When I plugged the holes I'd drilled, the chaincase oil level stopped changing... </p><p>For me the result was to go from something that went pretty well for a 50 year-old bike, to something that went like sh*t off a shovel, a bike that lived up to its myth.</p><p> </p><p>The alternative is to look at the bits, not knowing how they perform together, replace everything you think needs replaced, then start the sorting out procedure from scratch, but with new bits. It works, but it takes just as long, and is much more expensive.</p><p></p><p>A question you asked: when does it "get on the cam". Mine does it about 2500 rpm, about 50 mph in top (21 x 46). It goes better if I "short-shift". It would be interesting to put it on a dyno and get a torque curve. When torque falls off, acceleration follows suit.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tom Gaynor, post: 7278, member: 4034"] I'm a firm believer in "rolling restorations". Put some miles on it - I put about 5000 on mine - and at the end of it you have a clear idea of what needs to be done. Then you get it done. A good example is breathers: it took me quite a long time to realise that the answer to my problems wasn't a new breather system, but to address the problems (piston and valve guide blow-by) that was overwhelming the standard system. Drilling holes in the chaincase inspection cap had the un-anticipated (by me) effect of letting the engine breathe through the chaincase, and rendering ineffective the "real" breather. When I plugged the holes I'd drilled, the chaincase oil level stopped changing... For me the result was to go from something that went pretty well for a 50 year-old bike, to something that went like sh*t off a shovel, a bike that lived up to its myth. The alternative is to look at the bits, not knowing how they perform together, replace everything you think needs replaced, then start the sorting out procedure from scratch, but with new bits. It works, but it takes just as long, and is much more expensive. A question you asked: when does it "get on the cam". Mine does it about 2500 rpm, about 50 mph in top (21 x 46). It goes better if I "short-shift". It would be interesting to put it on a dyno and get a torque curve. When torque falls off, acceleration follows suit. [/QUOTE]
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hello from a state of disassembly.
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