F: Frame Headlamp Stays, Mudguard Stays.

powella

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Make your own flat one sided stays for the " Fenders " and Headlamp.
Half inch SEAMLESS tube thin walled.
Photo shows the forming blocks made from aluminium with the smaller piece having a " three quarter " hole to hold the tube while pressing together.
Ordinary bench vice will do the job.Hydraulic press is even better.
 

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vibrac

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VOC Member
Weight, less Weight is my target, Alloy tube for the headlight support is in my plans for the next project
Of course if anyone has details of the roumoured change that PCV proposed called a "Fully sprung headlight" that would be very interesting
(This proposed change was considered in the design and has been mentioned occasionaly in connection to the two unused cast boss found on the lower steering stem casting.)
Now that would be a good 'in keeping' modification as we all know (as did PCV) any reduction in unsprung weight is a double win.
 

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
The problem with mounting the headlamp of the bottom steering stem casting is that with just the two mountings there would be quite a lot of vibration (my Brough headlamp is mounted that way), ideally triangulated off FF1 as well would be the way to go.
 

Phil Hogg

Forum User
VOC Member
I had read the lugs were for a fully sprung headlamp, but we'll never know what was intended so when I was undressing my D last winter I decided to have a go. I liked the idea of taking the not inconsiderable weight off the forks, also I had filled the headlamp with as much of the electrical componentry as I could get in so isolating that and the speedo from road shocks was also an aim. I have covered 5K miles this year without finding any downside apart from a bit of resonant vibration at tick over so I might make another bracket this winter and lower the headlamp by an inch and hopefully change the resonant frequency. I used 5/8" x 16G G316 stainless tube welded to machined pillar bottom mounts. It's three tubes with a single bend each so it was relatively easy to make. My steering stem is not stock but I retained the lug feature.
Sprung headlamp 2.jpg
Sprung headlamp 4.jpg
Srung headlamp 3.jpg
 

Chris Launders

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VOC Member
I had read the lugs were for a fully sprung headlamp, but we'll never know what was intended so when I was undressing my D last winter I decided to have a go. I liked the idea of taking the not inconsiderable weight off the forks, also I had filled the headlamp with as much of the electrical componentry as I could get in so isolating that and the speedo from road shocks was also an aim. I have covered 5K miles this year without finding any downside apart from a bit of resonant vibration at tick over so I might make another bracket this winter and lower the headlamp by an inch and hopefully change the resonant frequency. I used 5/8" x 16G G316 stainless tube welded to machined pillar bottom mounts. It's three tubes with a single bend each so it was relatively easy to make. My steering stem is not stock but I retained the lug feature. View attachment 61112View attachment 61113View attachment 61114
Having so much stuff in the headlamp will help with the vibration dampening, but if you could pick up a mount from the FF1 that would eliminate any, and you'd be able to use much lighter tubing.
 

Hugo Myatt

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VOC Member
The Indian-Vincent (not the Vindian) had a fully sprung headlamp using a bifurcated mounting from the FF1 going around the damper to a one point fixing to the underside of an Indian type headlamp (i.e. not a Miller).
 

nobby

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VOC Member
The Indian-Vincent (not the Vindian) had a fully sprung headlamp using a bifurcated mounting from the FF1 going around the damper to a one point fixing to the underside of an Indian type headlamp (i.e. not a Miller).
 

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Phil Hogg

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VOC Member
Chris you are quite correct but to not impede the full movement of FF4 it becomes quite a convoluted bracket solution and I wanted the clean uncluttered appearance the two bolt fixing gives me. The bracket weighs about 400 gr just now when I make the MK11 it will be a bit less.
 

Chris. S

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VOC Member
I also heard the rumour that the holes were intended to be for a headlamp mount. About ten years ago I bought some 3/8 inch stainless rod and made two headlamp supports, bent to shape, and threaded at one end. I found that they restricted the steering lock slightly because they bump into the front petrol tank fixing bolts. This
Vincent headlamp mount. experiment2.JPG
Vincent headlamp mount. experiment 1.JPG
has never been a problem on the road. I always intended to improve on it but my 'round tuit' is lost.
 
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