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Gear box clunk

john998

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello, some think I have not encounered before. When I engage 1st gear it goes clunk clunk, and sometimes 3 clunks. All fine when riding, just at start off. Just cleaned and bushed clutch. coincidence? Your thoughts appreciated John.
 

jim burgess

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
Non-VOC Member
mine does this as well, just completed a full rebuild. Has the original style camplate, and does not select very well in the other gears.

So you are not alone....

jim
 

john998

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello Jim,
Thanks for that. Just going to remove the clutch again as I noticed that the drum appears to be eccentric (perhaps like the owner) It my be that the clutch carrier has has gone on a different spline, causing the wobble. I wonder if this is causing the shoes to rub at different points in the rotation, thus causing the dogs to load/ unload. Regards John.
 

Albervin

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
John, it pays to not look at a clutch too carefully. It wobbles & bobbles way too much for comfort. The reason for noise is usually not a clean lift so look there first. Check end float as if it is too small it will end up disappearing resulting in loud noises & no effective clutch......
 

John Appleton

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello, some think I have not encounered before. When I engage 1st gear it goes clunk clunk, and sometimes 3 clunks. All fine when riding, just at start off. Just cleaned and bushed clutch. coincidence? Your thoughts appreciated John.

1) Insufficient initial lubrication of PD 24 and especially PD22
2) Primary chain too tight thus putting excess side load on above bushes.
3) Idling speed too high
4) Centralising plungers not set correctly
5) lack of initial lubricant at C17

A few suggestions for starters, John
 
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john998

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello, thanks for the suggestions. While removing the clutch I decided to check the ESA springs, found them OK. On reassembly of the ESA which is converted to a D outer plate, I find that as you finally tighten the nut it takes the tab washer round with it, ie distorts the tab that goes into the thick washer. As this thick washer is not fixed to the splines it would seem that the tab washer really has no function. Is this because it is a C with a conversion. As I do not poses a D parts list would someone enlighten me.
I use an air spanner to remove the nut and to replace same, is this a good idea? John.
 

John Appleton

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
John, I have a similar system on my B rapide. I do not use a tab washer as I think they were fitted more in hope than anger. I drill nut and outer spring plate and use lock wire. I really dont trust this system completely, but at least a look through the PD filler cap lets you know if the wire is still intact. Be a bit careful with that impact gun. I have known an instance where the hexagon has pulled straight off of the ESA nut as if it had been made of cast iron. I still use the impact gun, but carefully.

N.B. I have been informed by, my mate Russ, that I may not be entirely correct in saying my set up is the same as yours, in fact I could even be wrong! I have a modified "C" outer plate, with splines inside. Not a "D" Type.



John
 
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john998

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello,
Just in from a run on this machine, it now appears to be OK.
The problem was that as I had re-bushed the clutch shoe pivot holes, for some reason the kick start lining on one shoe
was catching on the drum at one point in the rotation. This must have been causing an intermittent drive when
engaging first gear, hence the clunk. Have trimmed the lining back and now all good.
Still hate that clown! Regards John.
 

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
hi John,
I meant to answer this days ago but foregot, sorry, but here goes. As you know the correct series d lock plate has two lugs on it , one long and one short, the long one is the one that should be bent over to go through the slot in the D thrust plate, and then pick upon on one of the splines of the splined sleave. How ever it is easy,due to the friction of the nut when tightening up the shock absorber to over come the locking tab and pull the preasure plate arround with the nut. what I do to try and prevent that happening, is to grease both sides of the preasure plate, it allso helps to prevent all the spring cockling over . You could always cheat and use locktight 221 screw lock, nothing stronger, or you might have trouble the next time you need to strip it all down.
cheers norm
Hello, thanks for the suggestions. While removing the clutch I decided to check the ESA springs, found them OK. On reassembly of the ESA which is converted to a D outer plate, I find that as you finally tighten the nut it takes the tab washer round with it, ie distorts the tab that goes into the thick washer. As this thick washer is not fixed to the splines it would seem that the tab washer really has no function. Is this because it is a C with a conversion. As I do not poses a D parts list would someone enlighten me.
I use an air spanner to remove the nut and to replace same, is this a good idea? John.
 

john998

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
Hello Norman,
Thanks for that, on my machine which is a 'C' the conversion to 'D' consists of changing the dimpled thin plate for a thick plain plate, which does not have a splined hole. I do not posses a drawing for the 'D' ESA. You now have me worried as to if I have got it right, as I cannot visualise being able to bend the tab washer lug to engage the spline in the ESA sleeve. Having said that it has functioned like this for years.
I still hate the clown. Regards John.
 
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