F: Frame Fuel tank rear lugs

[fogrider]

Alternatively you could just use a bit of studding with nuts either side of each lug. The reduced diameter should find an an easier path through.

The reduced centre is why I used screws in from each end, OK, it's not original, but it had to be at the time to gain some clearance.

 

[Gary Gittleson]

It may sound strange, but most of my experience is with series D's. So I wonder why the D gets away without the tab/tube stiffener. I've never had a problem with tank cracks.

 

[timetraveller]

The UFM is much narrower so the cutout below the tank is also narrower. The tank is therefore stiffer and does not need the rear stiffeners. All part of the superior D design (runs for cover).

 

[CarlHungness]

DO NOT LEAVE OUT THE SPACER ROD AND TUBE or a crack in the tank will arrive
You need T39SS and T38SS and a couple of 1./4" BSF nuts and washers
I use a piece of 1/4 hexagon alloy bar and a couple of small bolts its easier than the standard set up as it can be a real fiddle
tension between the lugs is essential
View attachment 60047

Nice illustration!

 

[DucATIRadeon]

the Spares spacer is rather thin walled, or the holes in the tabs are wee bit larger.
fitted bushes with slight interference fit over the ends and then turned off (with chamfer to aid fitting!) to make snug fit between the tabs.

my tank is cracked unfortunately, can only use the bottom half of tank without leaks to outside world.

 

[timetraveller]

If the crack is not too high and visible then clean off the paint and make sure the metal is really clean. Then you can make a repair with epoxy resin. Ideally you should thicken that with a fine non soluble powder, colloidal silicon is ideal but just ask around at any fibreglass firm and see what powders they have. Do not use polyester resin.