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ET: Engine (Twin) Fuel and Carb Settings

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
No, those elbows need to go on when you make your cable. The elbow length does need to be accounted for when you trim the outer cable to length.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I know we would have to be careful, But in theory the inner could stay the same ??.
Just thinking of easy way for Bob.
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I know we would have to be careful, But in theory the inner could stay the same ??.
Just thinking of easy way for Bob.
It depends on if the nipple on the cable will go through the elbow
If it does, there's plenty of adjustment on the fitting as long as the inner is not too short. They are teflon lined and the liner slid out on mine so I was able to feed it over nipple.
 

Gary Gittleson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
On my D Rapide, I made my own elbows out of copper-nickle 3/16" brake line. It's very easy to form and doesn't kink easily. With that, I was able to form a piece that covered two bends. I soldered two female ferrules together to create an adapter between the tubing and the outer cable. Yes, I was a little over zealous with the solder but who's looking under the tank? And yes, those ugly hose clamps. That's another story for another thread.

Gary20181215_190016.jpg
 

Bobv07662

Active Website User
VOC Member
Wow! You guys have put some effort into your throttle cables! When the winter comes around I will incorporate some of your ideas into new rear cables... if I have to go down the new carb road.
I was very happy today when my son ( fellow bike rider) visited with my grandson (and to view the Vin)... the beast co-operated by starting on the first kick.
Could not have done that without the VOC!
 

Glenliman

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Venhills made up a set in Featherlight for the Rapide. Featherlight cable has a stainless steel inner and a Teflon liner. It's very low friction and does not require lube. Ends are silver soldered. Venhills made elbows to suit.
The finished product should last a very long time.

I have a drawing/ sketch of it somewhere.
It's not the least expensive route, but it's imperative to have cables that work. You life depends on it!



Glen
 
Last edited:

genedn

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Venhills made up a set in Featherlight for the Rapide. Featherlight cable has a stainless steel inner and a Teflon liner. It's very low friction and does not require lube. Ends are silver soldered. Venhills made elbows to suit.
The finished product should last a very long time.

I have a drawing/ sketch of it somewhere.
It's not the least expensive route, but it's imperative to have cables that work. You life depends on it!



Glen
Glen,

Love a copy of the drawings or a order number from Venhills for cables.
 

brian gains

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Gary; that's a neat idea, But one concern, is the elbows only form of support where it rests on the breather tube or am i missing something?. Otherwise it would seem that a relatively significant amount of leverage could be placed on the carb cap/ferrule area.
 

macvette

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Gary; that's a neat idea, But one concern, is the elbows only form of support where it rests on the breather tube or am i missing something?. Otherwise it would seem that a relatively significant amount of leverage could be placed on the carb cap/ferrule area.
The standard cables have poor radius and most likely put more friction into the carb top as they try to deflect to 90 degrees. Any form of elbow will produce a straighter pull on the slide hence less stress. The ones I used from Venhill, project into the cab top by about 1/4 ins and are snug. They have a small bracket which can use the screw which fixes the carb top rachet.
Been on there 10yrs light throttle snaps shut every time
 

Chris Launders

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I made one similar to Gary's for my C in stainless steel, I have concentrics so threaded the outside and tapped the carb top to suit, there's a 90 degree bend out of the carb and a 45 degree bend to take it alongside the UFM, epoxied a larger piece of some tube on the end to retain the cable ferrule
 

Gary Gittleson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Gary; that's a neat idea, But one concern, is the elbows only form of support where it rests on the breather tube or am i missing something?. Otherwise it would seem that a relatively significant amount of leverage could be placed on the carb cap/ferrule area.
From the photo, it appears that the cable is resting on the breather, but it's not. The cable is quite stable and doesn't move when the throttle is twisted. Packed the tube with grease when I assembled it. I think it will last a fair amount of time. It's been some 10,000 miles so far.
Gary
 

Gary Gittleson

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Wow! You guys have put some effort into your throttle cables!
Right, Bob. Thing is, Mr. Vincent didn't leave us much room for cable routing. The D bikes may be even worse in this area. I'm not sure about that but the D has Monobloc carbs and I believe the bottom of the tank is also a bit different.
Gary
 

Glenliman

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
Here is what I sent to Venhills for the throttle cables. This is for a twin pull Thomaselli throttle to Amal Concentrics. Free length with other arrangements will differ.
See the notes added re overall length, which was a bit longer than needed.Screenshot_20200727-133951.png
 

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