Fuel/Tanks Float level front carb.

Vincent Brake

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Any advise on how to set height of level on the front carbie?

i guess i put the carb bit out of 90 degree. With level just a tad under main jet.

Note: neal did re place the pilot jet re dill in the jet block.

Thnx in advance
 

greg brillus

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Vincent, That is extremely privileged information, that not even the most experienced pre war Vin owner knows.........Luckily for you, I spent some time to work it out for myself to get the new "A" twins here set up better........You need an old lower banjo bolt the longer 229/289 type........then drill about a 8mm hole through the base........This way you look in and see what the fuel level is doing........The stock banjo bolt has an issue that it has a cross feed hole........between the hex end and the thread.......The problem here is that if the cross hole is not vertical, the fuel cannot easily make it into the carb base where it draws fuel from with the bolt done up tight........If you cut a series of slots across the bolt thread about 6 of, these slots will let the fuel flow no matter what position the bolt is when it is tight.........The level needs to fill into the carb base (visually through the hole in the dummy bolt) but not high enough to be level with the main jet.........If it is, then the engine will constantly flood........i found on all the float bowls/levels were way too low.......how they are standard........but the correct brass type float bowl, not the later alloy ones, the level was quite close.......i think i simply cut a new slot in the float needle.......this made the float actually hit the top cap.......had to trim a bit off the upper needle guide and trim some off the tickler pin as well.......otherwise the float will flood badly........I don't know why all this seemed so necessary, but I discovered the level was too low, after Rodney came to my place on his bike and at idle speed the engine was only running on the rear cylinder.......when i held the tickler button down briefly, the front cylinder started to fire again........this told me the float level was too low.......i then carried out this same mod to most all of the other twins as well........From memory, the bowls that were made of mazac/alloy, I had to raise the float level about 6 or 7 mm to get the fuel level to flow into the carb base but not too high that is floods easily........Just so you know also, it is critical that you shut the fuel taps off after a run, as a leaking tap can cause the front cylinder to flood badly and it can bypass the piston rings and fill the crankcase with fuel........if you start the engine later, it will overflow the oil tank and make a huge mess.........All good fun........Cheers......Greg.
 

billirwinnz

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Hi Vincent

I've spent hours fiddling with float heights on my bike. Originally the front level was far too low and the small amount of fuel would vaporise whenever I stopped for gas. I discovered later that my carbs hadn't been given the Jeff Smith pilot jet modification which didn't help. I've also had issues with the rear float level being too high. The new replica Amal carbs have nylon floats which are heavier and the float level is too high. I see on their website that the correct float height for type 6 carbs is 1-5/16" below the top of the float bowl but even by fitting lighter floats I've never been able to get it as low. On the old brass bowl float chambers the level sits lower.

As far as the front carb goes I can only suggest trial and error. I run my front carb tilted down at the feed end so that I can run a decent amount of fuel in the chamber without it flooding into the motor. By rotating the bowl it's easy enough to experiment with different float heights. I haven't measured mine since I got it right but it depends on the angle of the carb too.

Good luck!

Cheers Bill
 

billirwinnz

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I just read Greg's reply. Hi Greg.

I can park my bike safely on the centre or prop stand without needing the turn off the fuel so there's a happy medium. For cold starts I hold the front tickler down for 2 seconds. I have learned not to touch the rear as the float level is on the high side anyway and gets raised further when the bike is on the prop stand. No choke.

Cheers Bill
 

Vincent Brake

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Thnx guys.

I discovered the issue with the bolt, there were 4 holes in them, thnx to you Greg!! and thought to tilt the frnt bit, so it woulnt keep running down. Drilled the zamak part under the bolt with M3, so set the level with clear hose, just under main yet. It ll cause a problem in the right hand curves i guess....

Rear: I put the level just under the thread of the air screw.

Tooo late to start. Neighbours...
 

Vincent Brake

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Guys,
So it started up in 2 kicks.
First a 3 sec push both floats down.
After 3 min idle, stop.
started up 10 times.....
No choke. No more tickling floats.

Put the normal kickstart lever back on. So it spins bit quicker.

No idea why that all took me so long....

Wine, wine!!!
 
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