E: Engine Exhaust Tappet

[greg brillus]

When fitting the new seals you should fit one at a time, then hold the cover on with hand pressure and you want about a 1 mm gap at most at the top of the cover. That way you know the seals are not being compressed too much and enough crush to form a seal......do this to each one on it's own, and adjust either way using different thickness washers under each nut. This works very well and takes all the guess out of it.

 

[Peter Holmes]

Great tip, Thanks.

 

[oexing]

Now I am a bit worried about possible failures of adjusters though this does happen not very often. Even more so when looking at the photos at the start of this thread. Seems the hardening process has to be watched closely ,maybe one could be willing to anneal one´s adjusters still. I would not want all of 60 HRC on threaded parts, 55 HRC or less would be quite allright. Case hardening would be even better but this is more of a job and costs.
My Videan adjusters are standard but shortened about one millimeter to keep only the radius cup for standard ball ends of course. But the pressed in/loctited ball ends in the alu pushrods are high chrome 12 % toolsteel 1.2379 , only the ball faces hardened with sharp torch in three seconds so as no heat creeps down to the waisted section that I like soft. I do the ball ends on the D-bit grinder after hardening to exact adjuster cups size and some lapping with diamond paste.
When running pushrods with oil lubrication I´d believe well below 50 HRC hardness should easily do, so just high tensile bolts material should work quite well. Hardened threads there look a bit scary to me now, will take a close check on the Videan types again and maybe put them on an electric cooking plate for some more annealing to be safe.
For sealing the timing gear shafts I have chosen o-rings as you have more range with them compared to plain rubber material.

Vic

D-bit grinder and SR 500 adjusters:

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

I will probably pop off the timing chest cover and take a peek inside, what is the view on replacement gaskets, can I purchase a Cometic gasket in the UK, is it a good idea, would I have source thicker rubber washer seals for the cam wheel spindles to compensate for the thicker gasket, does anyone sell thicker washers for this purpose, last time I had a timing cover off I felt that the new rubber washers that were supplied were a bit thin anyway.

Cometic gaskets are actually quite thin, no need for any 'compensation'. They, along with the seal kit from V3 products, are the best thing you can do for your Vincent. Of course, no seals will compensate for a worn motor with compression blow by into the cases.

Details in OVR on supplier of Cometic, For V3 see the adverts in MPH.

Martyn

 

[brian gains]

I've never used a gasket, just gasketcich (?) product and replaced seals once in the last half dozen times the cover has been off: no problems....unless someone is now going to tell me I've compromised oil geed by not replacing washers.

 

[Peter Holmes]

How do I find OVR, did a forum search, but nothing comes up.

 

[Bill Thomas]

Home | ozvincentreview

ovr270.wixsite.com

Not sure if this works.

 

[Comet Rider]

Peter
If Bill's link does not work send a PM to Martyn G "the black sheep" he's the OVR editor

 

[oexing]

Had a look at the new Videan adjusters last night and did not like the high hardness in my home test. So decided to place them on the cooking plate for reducing some of the brittleness hopefully. Threads on screws should not be so hard as to crack off and I better like some distortion from use than brittleness which makes fasteners useless. The blue is from about 300 degrees C. The nuts were allright though but a stupid size hexagon, no 9/16 and no 1/2 " so unacceptable for me, now 13 mm .
Life is too short to mess around with obsolete imperial sizes . . . .

Vic

 

[vibrac]

Life is too short to mess around with obsolete imperial sizes . . . .

Vic

Better dump the Vincent then