Exhaust Pipe Flange

Gary Gittleson

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I assume MoS2 is some sort of Molybdenum paste. I use that on the gearbox mainshaft/clutch spline and the rear wheel spline as well but I don't remember which brand it is. A lot of guys used a product called "Hondalube" which I believe is no longer available. We just used Neverseize or some sort for the exhaust threads and spark plugs. There's still some controversy over these things. I find that a lot of BMW guys get very particular about these things. Some say you should always leave spark plugs dry. Others the opposite. It gets a bit like rivet counting.
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Antiseize got nothing to do with BMW drivers, it is just good practice when dealing with alu on alu thread fasteners or plain stainless fasteners for preventing seizures. Clear oil or grease will not work longtime on hot parts as it will smoke off and then same risk of dry seizures will set in. I was just curious about your statement of regular, annual lubrication in BMW business for ex pipe nuts. I´d believe once well-brushed with some antiseize would last decades, be it copper antiseize, MoS2 my preferred paste, or other antiseize, some ceramic types, no matter. Dow Corning Molykote once was quite familiar with MoS2 pastes, seems they switched to graphite instead, allright for threads as well I think. But in some BMW gearboxes I add MoS2 finest powder for extra protection of gears, would not want graphite in there.
Lubricating spark plugs is an intersting discussion, minimum copper grease on spark plugs is a must in aero engines ! But in more common vehicles Helicoil has earned their billions from owners who follow that religion of torquing the plugs in dry. Certainly the argument that with antiseize on threads torque numbers will not be suitable when ordinary oil was used in screw torque tests. I do have a torque wrench but it is rarely used on our fleet, you can never be so wrong by hand feel than by getting a torque wrench setting wrong. I say a lot more threads were fu***d up by using a torque wrench than by brute hand force .

Vic
MoS2 powder and grease:
P1060715.JPG
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Several automakers over here recommend antiseize on plugs because the replacement intervals are so high.
Vic… I am surprised that the aero engine folks would recommend a copper based antseize. I would have thought they would recommend nickel. I use it on automotive disc brake pins etc and exhaust nuts, plugs, but basically good for most things. Available from one of your favourite companies. I think this can is from the 70’s and I’m only 1/2 way through it.

IMG_5467.jpeg
 

bmetcalf

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I use it on car wheel studs and paint the mating surfaces after having corrosion bond alloy wheels to the ferrous discs/drums and having to bash the wheels off with a sledgehammer.
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
You know the rules never use a spanner to do up a nut that is longer than one you carry in your tool kit
a modification for car wheels is only use your arm to do it up and keep your leg to undo it
 

Speedtwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
I like to rub it all over and retire to the rubber dingey with my misses.
Copper or nickel is fine,although the copper comes off easier in the shower.....

Have a great day today keep on smiling.
 

Phil Arundel

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks for the advice. I have purchased some alloy bar to turn a former - I’ll report back on how it works out.
cheers
Phil
 

Phil Arundel

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Thanks for your replies. I have purchase a pice of alloy bar for turning a former. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Cheers,
Phil
 
Top