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ET27/2 multiplate clutch adjuster

Oldhaven

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VOC Member
I am installing a V3 clutch on my B Rapide. I have also fitted the new type ET27/2 clutch adjuster. This fits into my B style G1 kickstart cover from the inside. This new type moves the pressure point of the G91 to the end of the lever, giving slightly more lift. It has a slotted end outside of the cover so a screwdriver can be used for adjustment, and it is longer than the standard ET27/1 AS. My problem is that when I adjust it out far enough to give the G91 lever slight play against the clutch rod when nearly against the outer edge of the kickstart cover opening, it protrudes out far enough to prevent the use of the kickstart lever. The inner 1/2" flange is about as far into the cover adjuster recess as it can go and is bottoming against the cover.

I measured the clutch rod stickout from the G3 shaft at the kickstart end with the clutch engaged and it is .355". I think I followed the V3 instructions for clutch shaft shortening and fitting correctly, and don't want to shorten the clutch rod more if it is correct. How much lift/rod stickout is required for the V3? If it is only .250" or something like that I can shorten the rod and get quite a bit more of the ET27/2 adjuster into the cover. My other option is to shorten the adjuster and recut the screwdriver slot, but if that was necessary, others would have commented on it, I would think.

Complicating things is the fact that I don't have the clutch cable and lever hooked up since the engine is separated from the front end, but I don't think this is a cable related problem. Before I bother the V3 distributor about this perhaps someone who has been through this with the new adjuster can see what I am missing.

Ron
 

BigEd

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VOC Forum Website Moderator
Dear Ron,
There is a C42 adjuster in the C23 outer clutch plate that you can use for adjustment. If this is this screwed right in you could screw this out to produce more clearance.
Failing that screw in the ET27/2 adjuster until it no longer fouls the kickstart then shorten the clutch pushrod by the amount you screwed in the adjuster.
The pushrod is not made of "unobtainium" so don't be afraid to shorten it. You may have to heat the cut end to red and quench it in water to re-harden it.
If your pushrod is two piece and you have a 1/4" roller or a 1/4" ball bearing between the two pieces you could assemble it without the 1/4" roller/ball and see what how that length works to give you a bit of confidence before you start cutting.
 

Oldhaven

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VOC Member
Dear Ron,
There is a C42 adjuster in the C23 outer clutch plate that you can use for adjustment. If this is this screwed right in you could screw this out to produce more clearance.
Failing that screw in the ET27/2 adjuster until it no longer fouls the kickstart then shorten the clutch pushrod by the amount you screwed in the adjuster.
The pushrod is not made of "unobtainium" so don't be afraid to shorten it. You may have to heat the cut end to red and quench it in water to re-harden it.
If your pushrod is two piece and you have a 1/4" roller or a 1/4" ball bearing between the two pieces you could assemble it without the 1/4" roller/ball and see what how that length works to give you a bit of confidence before you start cutting.

Thanks Ed,

Trev is right about no C23 in a V3, but I will follow your advice about finding out how much shortening the push rod needs, though I don't think it will be an exact one to one ratio between screwing the adjuster in and how much rod to shorten. I have enough rod around to make a shorter center roller and experiment, though I will have to take the clutch apart a bit to push the rod out.

Ron
 

Oldhaven

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VOC Member
Well, that worked. I took the center roller out and shortened it by .200", rehardened, and now all is fine. My initial mistake was in measuring the clutch rod length at the clutch plate end with the adjuster at the outer limit of of its travel, instead of in the center and clearing the kick start. Seems pretty obvious to me now. Thanks again for the tip Ed.

Ron
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
Hello Ron, You can use a Magnet or a bit of thick grease to pull the pushrod out, I have changed the clutch many times for racing etc and use more than one 1/4 1/4 rollers, Cheers Bill.
 

Oldhaven

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VOC Member
Hello Ron, You can use a Magnet or a bit of thick grease to pull the pushrod out, I have changed the clutch many times for racing etc and use more than one 1/4 1/4 rollers, Cheers Bill.

Thanks, Bill. I'll have to get one of those magnets on a rod, since I seem to be dropping things a bit more than I used to and there are a lot of nooks on a Vincent. I have resorted to magnetizing a screwdriver for this, but that makes it a pain to use after that as it picks up every metal filing in the shop. All sorted out now, I hope.

Ron
 

BigEd

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VOC Member
VOC Forum Website Moderator
Ed, I never knew a V3 used a C23.......
Dear Trevor,
Got carried away with the advice and forgot that Ron had said a V3 clutch.:oops: The multiplate clutch I had fitted had an adjuster in the pressure plate so there was adjustment at both ends like with the standard Vincent clutch that I use now. Personally I think that the Vincent clutch on a twin is really good when set up correctly.
 

Albervin

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VOC Member
I have been using a standard (?) V3 clutch and standard ET27/1 for nearly 10 years. I also use a one piece pushrod as Neal said the bearing in the clutch does its job and adding a
1/4" roller is overkill. No problems at all. I wonder why you are seeking more lift? Hot or cold I always have smooth gear selection.
 

Oldhaven

Well Known and Active Forum Website User
VOC Member
I have been using a standard (?) V3 clutch and standard ET27/1 for nearly 10 years. I also use a one piece pushrod as Neal said the bearing in the clutch does its job and adding a
1/4" roller is overkill. No problems at all. I wonder why you are seeking more lift? Hot or cold I always have smooth gear selection.

Hi Albervin,
I am not really sure I need the lift, since I have not been able to try the V3 yet, but the modified ET27/2 solved a problem for me since the original thread in the cover was gone. I made a flanged adapter/insert to fix the thread, but this meant that the standard adjuster was moved out away from the pushrod and the extra length ET27/2 solved that. I also think the modified one is theoretically stronger in my repaired cover since the inside end fits nicely in the 1/2" bore of the cover recess. Unfortunately I messed up the pushrod length, now fixed. You are right about the bearing in the clutch cover plate, but I had a divided rod for the original clutch, so I reused it. I am very pleased to hear you have had no problems, since I bought mine about ten years ago and it has not been used yet. Do you still use the 6 original springs that were sent with it?

Ron
 
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