Misc: Everything Else Electric starters, Batteries and charging systems

clevtrev

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First things first. DON`T touch the throttle when you are pressing the button ! Quickest way to blow the sprag.

What does the bike think when using the kick start ? Disconnect the motor, and get the bike running properly before using the starter. The fact that you are getting popping back, says the carbs are giving you a problem.
 

clevtrev

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This is one of François notes, so note well

Remember the most critical part of the fitting is step 5 in the instructions sheets .
Ideally , have the opportunity to check your gearbox , why not replace the bronze bushes , shimm properly etc ...
This will allow to have your final drive shaft out (the short one that carry the chain sprocket ) .If so , fit this shaft in a lathe chuck + an old gearbox final drive bearing (or a piece of tube the same width) , the final drive chain sprocket, its big nut fully tightened , and remove a bit of material out of the final drive end , ideally say 2 mm .
This will ease you to the have ( step 5) the G46AS kick start pinion rachet to work properly in the 'clutch stage', ie when the kickstart crank returns to its top stop position; The oil seal lip is sometimes protruding a bit too far out, best to machine the kickstart pinion ratchet down a bit more than 30mm , say 29. 8 mm od can avoid the lip to interfere with the ratchet teeth.
you MUST NOT need to help the kickstart crank to return to top with your hand; this rachet must be free as original but .... you have to manage with the space !
Then , always have a fully charged GOOD battery ( YUASA YTX14 H BS, NO cheaper copies) , well setted engine ect .....
I tested many batteries and still recommend the YUASA YTX14 H BS which is 240CCA instead of ytx14bs(200CCA),both are exactly the same size but Hbs one give 40CCA more power during the electric starter stage. Lithium ones are smaller, lighter, more expensive, interesting to fit to special sporting bikes but have bigger heavy battery wires if its length is increased, 14mm2 diameter or more..
There is no problem at all with the electric starter fitted to a well setted bike and normal use . This system was designed for very std vincent engine 25 years + ago , however many are fitted to high compression, bigger bore and stroke, it works fine with a perfect tuned engine that starts first spark with just a kiss on the starter button. Be aware of your ignition system, more settings attention is required when twin plugs are fitted (ask about this matter if necessary), DO NOT have a manual advance, a day or another you will forget to push your ad lever to retard when having to restart after an engine stall at traffic light with a car queue at your back, or this... or that = expensive £,$,€ssss reductor gear teeth repair. Ideally, have a well setted mechanical ATD, reliable system which is not sensible to heat, voltage or amps variations. Good magneto, points or electronic ignition having mechanical atd is perfect choice.My ignition system matches perfectly with single or twins. Ask for information if needed.
To start the engine , don't pull the throttle (this is not a jap'nese), keep(adjust) the idle speed quite high to NEVER have the engine to stall because this causes the engine to turn backwards -same as backfire etc....etc .....you need to avoid all this to save disappointment and expensive repair .Actual fuels tends to plug the carb jets. CHECK well and clean your pilot jets if your engine does not iddle perfectly, BE sure of throttle cables synchronisation.
You will notice that the bike is difficult to push backward when a gear is engaged, select neutral that is supposed to be available into your gearbox to disengage gear. Of course you need to have a good clutch that does its job properly. Rearward block-up is much appreciated by riders at stop on hills and is not a cause of shear pin breakage.
Some of this starter kit are still operating from original having done up to 100 000 kms with their original shear pin, and they are over 20 years old, so the bikes they are on are performing properly for that to happen. That`s all it takes. So if you have a duff bike, you`ll soon have a duff starter !
Feel free to come back TO ME if needed instead of reading some posts and answers in the internet, I have been forwarded some of it that contained funny replies and crazy advices from , for sure people who did not understand this 'starter area', forget that way please .​
 

Vincent Brake

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
This is one of François notes, so note well











Some of this starter kit are still operating from original having done up to 100 000 kms with their original shear pin, and they are over 20 years old, so the bikes they are on are performing properly for that to happen. That`s all it takes. So if you have a duff bike, you`ll soon have a duff starter !
Feel free to come back TO ME if needed instead of reading some posts and answers in the internet, I have been forwarded some of it that contained funny replies and crazy advices from , for sure people who did not understand this 'starter area', forget that way please .​
Well well well, all there. Nice.
Go go gogo Mr Thread Starter.
 

kerry

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VOC Member
I have one fitted, Don't touch the throttle, I use the decompressor too, with slightly fast tick over it should be ok, If the slides are lifting the carbs are part blocked, strip and clean them, sorry if you know all this already, good luck.
 

vibrac

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I dont know what ignition you have but when I start one with a coil ignition now I always pull the clutch in before I switch on I have pictures of my stripped starter gear when it backfired when I turned the key on. Just that once it needs to have stopped in just that position with just those fumes in the head and.....
 

Dave61

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
First things first. DON`T touch the throttle when you are pressing the button ! Quickest way to blow the sprag.

What does the bike think when using the kick start ? Disconnect the motor, and get the bike running properly before using the starter. The fact that you are getting popping back, says the carbs are giving you a problem.
Thanks for the advice Trev.
Bike was running fine before, I had heeded Francois notes that all must be well before starting but obviously something has changed.
I`ve realised that the video I posted was actually the second one, I had been well behaved on the first attempt but it wouldn`t idle hence I had dispensed with the choke & was tempted to use the throttle.
After this attempt the bike was starting reliably with just pressing the button & not touching anything else just doesn`t want to rev up at all.
Will have a good look at the carbs & see how that goes.
Cheers
Dave
 
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Dave61

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Following on from clevtrev; have you checked the carbs are synchronised? Have you drained them to flush out any dirt and to ensure that only fresh clean fuel is in there. Is the fuel flowing freely down to the carbs if you disconnect the feeds and turn on the taps? Come back when and if all those things are correct.
?
Thanks for the advice Norman.
Had thought it was running ok before I had fitted the starter & would have said I thought I had the carbs synchronised if you`d asked me before.
Will go through them again.
Cheers
Dave
 

Dave61

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
I dont know what ignition you have but when I start one with a coil ignition now I always pull the clutch in before I switch on I have pictures of my stripped starter gear when it backfired when I turned the key on. Just that once it needs to have stopped in just that position with just those fumes in the head and.....
I had payed attention to what you said before Tim & was holding the decompressor lever in each time I turned on the ignition.
Cheers
Dave
 

Peter Holmes

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VOC Member
I agree with Trevor ( and Francois) regarding the choice of battery, but currently there seems to be a problem with the supply, none of the battery suppliers seem to have stock, and haven’t had so for quite sometime now. I did manage to find old stock at Halfords, but so far I have purchased 2 batteries from them and they have both been duff, looking at the activation stickers on the 2 batteries that I had it would seem that they were both activated and then left dormant for a year, I guess because of Covid and lockdown etc. Let’s hope Yuasa have not deleted this battery from the range, it was a fine battery, near perfect size and colour for a Vincent with great cranking amps.
 
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