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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Early Rapide Research: 1947
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<blockquote data-quote="craig" data-source="post: 92259" data-attributes="member: 1959"><p>I have been reading my early Riders Handbook and taking notice of some of the changed details throughout the handbook from the more common later editions.</p><p>Here is the text in the electrical equipment I would like help with please.</p><p>Where is this "Miller" Instruction book?</p><p>At what build was the dip moved to the left?</p><p>At what build was the stop light switch wire moved from the battery+?</p><p></p><p></p><p style="text-align: center"><strong>ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT-LIGHTING SYSTEM</strong></p> <p style="text-align: center"><strong>Lighting System</strong></p><p></p><p>This is quite independent of the ignition circuit, so that, if required, the dynamo can be either disconnected or removed when entering sporting events. The 6-volt, 50-watt dynamo is voltage controlled by an external regulator, whose function is to limit the generator output to avoid overcharging the battery on long runs and to permit the dynamo to charge at maximum rate should the battery be flat. Consequently, the ammeter which is situated on the headlamp is likely to show somewhat inconsistent readings, as these depend more on the state of the battery than anything else. With a fully-charged battery the ammeter should read between 2 amps. and 4 amps. charge, but this may rise to 8 amps if the battery is flat. Although there is an "Off" position shown on the switch, this is actually inoperative, and the ammeter will still show "Charge". <strong>For more detailed information and wiring diagram see "Miller" Instruction Book.</strong></p><p>The headlamp switch controls the taillight, speedo light, pilot bulb and the twin-filament main bulb. The main beam is dipped or raised by the dipper switch on handlebars, <strong>which is normally fitted on the right, but can be changed over if desired. </strong>The tail light wire is fitted with a screwed connector covered,with a rubber sheath, adjacent to the battery to facilitate disconnection when removing the upper frame member. </p><p>The horn and stop-light circuits are separate from the main circuit, and their current consumption does not register on the ammeter. The positive horn lead goes from the battery <strong>+</strong> terminal direct to the horn, from which an earth wire runs to the push button on bars; this earth wire is fitted with a connector of a different pattern from the tail light wire to obviate incorrect coupling-up, which would shortcircuit the battery to earth.</p><p><strong>The stop-light wire in early models is also connected to the battery + terminal, but later was taken off the + horn terminal.</strong> In either case the wire then goes to the stop-light switch and thence to the stop light. The stop light should be set by moving the spring anchorage along the brake rod so that the light comes on slightly before the brakes do. Occasionally it may be necessary to swivel the anchorage round the rod, as the angle at which the spring is pulling affects the action of the switch contacts.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="craig, post: 92259, member: 1959"] I have been reading my early Riders Handbook and taking notice of some of the changed details throughout the handbook from the more common later editions. Here is the text in the electrical equipment I would like help with please. Where is this "Miller" Instruction book? At what build was the dip moved to the left? At what build was the stop light switch wire moved from the battery+? [CENTER][B]ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT-LIGHTING SYSTEM Lighting System[/B][/CENTER] This is quite independent of the ignition circuit, so that, if required, the dynamo can be either disconnected or removed when entering sporting events. The 6-volt, 50-watt dynamo is voltage controlled by an external regulator, whose function is to limit the generator output to avoid overcharging the battery on long runs and to permit the dynamo to charge at maximum rate should the battery be flat. Consequently, the ammeter which is situated on the headlamp is likely to show somewhat inconsistent readings, as these depend more on the state of the battery than anything else. With a fully-charged battery the ammeter should read between 2 amps. and 4 amps. charge, but this may rise to 8 amps if the battery is flat. Although there is an "Off" position shown on the switch, this is actually inoperative, and the ammeter will still show "Charge". [B]For more detailed information and wiring diagram see "Miller" Instruction Book.[/B] The headlamp switch controls the taillight, speedo light, pilot bulb and the twin-filament main bulb.[B] [/B]The main beam is dipped or raised by the dipper switch on handlebars, [B]which is normally fitted on the right, but can be changed over if desired. [/B]The tail light wire is fitted with a screwed connector covered,with a rubber sheath, adjacent to the battery to facilitate disconnection when removing the upper frame member. The horn and stop-light circuits are separate from the main circuit, and their current consumption does not register on the ammeter. The positive horn lead goes from the battery [B]+[/B] terminal direct to the horn, from which an earth wire runs to the push button on bars; this earth wire is fitted with a connector of a different pattern from the tail light wire to obviate incorrect coupling-up, which would shortcircuit the battery to earth. [B]The stop-light wire in early models is also connected to the battery + terminal, but later was taken off the + horn terminal.[/B] In either case the wire then goes to the stop-light switch and thence to the stop light. The stop light should be set by moving the spring anchorage along the brake rod so that the light comes on slightly before the brakes do. Occasionally it may be necessary to swivel the anchorage round the rod, as the angle at which the spring is pulling affects the action of the switch contacts. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Early Rapide Research: 1947
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