FF: Forks Cracked FF3 Lower Link?

lee_812d

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Depending how long there was a crack there, water could have got in and caused some rust and other issues if in the past they weren't kept well greased. I had to cut my spindles out because they were seized in. I wonder whether enough water could have got in via the ends to then freeze - highly unlikely I suppose unless it was kept outside and not used.
I presume the forks/links are moving nicely as they should rather than being solid.
Be careful taking the spindles out when it comes to that as they should not be that difficult to move unless they look like my old ones.
 

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timetraveller

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Interesting idea Chankly. The front suspension on E type Jags was torsion bars with the radial arms a spline fit on them. I think that we all know now that modern fork blades are machined from solid rather than being forgings as ori
 

timetraveller

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Ginally. (Severe storm going on here so excuse the interruption). My idea was to do an ACAD design with a few extra stress relieving curves and fins so that they could be machined from solid with a CNC mill. I don't have access to a finite element analysing program so they would almost certainly be over strong rather than down to a minimum weight. Just to show I have a track record here I did a similar exercise for the SC about a year ago for three different styles of aluminium damper knobs and replacements for the plastic ones for the Bramptons. They all seem to have turned out ok.
 

Michael Vane-Hunt

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An experience from my past where we crashed our 57 Chev into the end of a brow log of a bridge. It so happened there was a logging camp shop just across the bridge. We asked the welder if he would weld up the broken steering. We were told that it was illegal to weld on any part of steering of any components and if he did the repair he would be liable. This was back in 1968. I expect this may also apply to other jurisdictions?
 

Elanman39

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Well, it's all apart and exactly as suspected there's a crack running along the leading edge of the link in the region between the larger diameter ends where the bushes are located. The crack was quite visible with the naked eye as stripped, especially with grease forced through it, but attempts to determine the precise ends of the crack using dye penetrant failed, possibly as a result of residual grease in the crack preventing the dye from penetrating. I cleaned the link with paraffin and then brake cleaner and an airline before a final soak in dye penetrant non-chlorinated cleaner so think I made every reasonable effort to get the grease out before putting the dye on, but as the pictures show, with the exception of one very slight hint the crack does not pick up. Applying a grease under light pressure however soon shows the extent of the crack, which must surely be the result of excessive pressure when using a grease gun. Looking at the failure and the load paths through the link I am convinced that it not a result of any suspension load and to be honest, I suspect if I hadn't noticed it it would be unlikely to result in a catastrophic failure, although, now I know it's there it's got to be fixed. The link is without question a mild steel forging (not a casting) and could be easily welded to a greater strength than the original part using a suitable argon arc process after pre-warming it in an oven, not-withstanding laws designed to protect us from ourselves. That said I could easily be persuaded to fit a good replacement if anyone has one going spare. I assume the replacement bushes will be supplied slightly undersize so they can be line reamed parallel to the rear pivot axis.
Thanks for all your thoughts, the bike was restored to a very high standard about 12 years ago (forgiving them this one aberration) and has been in dry storage right up until I bought it, so all the spindles/ fasteners etc are as new condition and free and easy to remove, in fact it's a real pleasure to work on.
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Robert Watson

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My initial thought would be that, assuming the large dia part holding the bushings is intact, really there is little or no structural load on the part where it is cracked, and may indeed have been like that since being made. Unless it is a defective forging being down to paper thin I cannot fathom it being split by grease pressure. I would be inclined to get the Dremel out and do a nice little V grind and repair it with JB weld. That would prevent any warping due to the heat of welding, and would let you know how thick it is in this area.
 
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Bill Thomas

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Another thing we must keep our eye on !,
Thanks for the info',
If I was welding it I would put a pair of Rings round it also,
Just in case ?.
I don't think Grease would do it, Must have been bad from new ?.
 
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