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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet Burman clutch questions
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 149777" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>When oil in clutch was a problem - how do millions of Asian bikes deal with their oil bath clutches ?? I had thought about this for a while and did mods on a few bikes for getting the old crap closer to modern thinking: </p><p> With modern oils in engine or gearboxes/clutches you often produce slipping clutches . Reason: oils are a lot more slippery than types decades ago. So friction plates will not be able for providing much grip. </p><p> Second factor is the typically very wide friction material on plates. So any spring load is spread over a wide area and in consequence at lot less grip from this as oil will not easily squeeze out from between plates. </p><p> Third factor for unpleasant use of clutch is a stickiness when cold. Again wide areas of friction material will make matters even worse. </p><p> So my approach to old designs is to machine friction material to a width of 10-12 mm max.. This gets you same grip like with modern clutches plus less sticky when selecting first gear at standstill. I did mods on the Rapides and the prewar Horex with Kawa clutches and machined friction plates of a postwar Horex for great effect. So this is what I´d suggest to do with any old parts for nice operation. I would not want dry clutches as without oil in places you will see a lot more wear at places that like a bit of lubrication. Ducati owners with their rattly dry clutches replace them at 30 000 km intervals due to excessive wear. I would be ashamed to sit on a bike rattly as these are. </p><p> Look at my photos and compare friction plates with old types to spot the critical differences. </p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p></p><p>Kawa clutch in Horex:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]46445[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>modified Horex friction plates at the left, Kawa at right:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]46446[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p> Kawa vs. Horex old:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]46447[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 149777, member: 1493"] When oil in clutch was a problem - how do millions of Asian bikes deal with their oil bath clutches ?? I had thought about this for a while and did mods on a few bikes for getting the old crap closer to modern thinking: With modern oils in engine or gearboxes/clutches you often produce slipping clutches . Reason: oils are a lot more slippery than types decades ago. So friction plates will not be able for providing much grip. Second factor is the typically very wide friction material on plates. So any spring load is spread over a wide area and in consequence at lot less grip from this as oil will not easily squeeze out from between plates. Third factor for unpleasant use of clutch is a stickiness when cold. Again wide areas of friction material will make matters even worse. So my approach to old designs is to machine friction material to a width of 10-12 mm max.. This gets you same grip like with modern clutches plus less sticky when selecting first gear at standstill. I did mods on the Rapides and the prewar Horex with Kawa clutches and machined friction plates of a postwar Horex for great effect. So this is what I´d suggest to do with any old parts for nice operation. I would not want dry clutches as without oil in places you will see a lot more wear at places that like a bit of lubrication. Ducati owners with their rattly dry clutches replace them at 30 000 km intervals due to excessive wear. I would be ashamed to sit on a bike rattly as these are. Look at my photos and compare friction plates with old types to spot the critical differences. Vic Kawa clutch in Horex: [ATTACH type="full"]46445[/ATTACH] modified Horex friction plates at the left, Kawa at right: [ATTACH type="full"]46446[/ATTACH] Kawa vs. Horex old: [ATTACH type="full"]46447[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet Burman clutch questions
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