A: Oil Pipework Check Valve of Unknown Origin...

[CoreyL]

How Do,

Can anyone tell me about this check valve? It was installed on my single in the oil feed line to the pump. I removed it and tried to blow through it. I found it pretty much impossible to get it to open blowing as hard as I could. I took it apart and it seems to me like the spring is too long. My assumption is that the check valve should open under very minimal suction/pressure. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Corey

 

[Cyborg]

Without question I would toss that thing. If I felt the need for an anti sumping device, I would be more comfortable with a manual valve with a built in switch to ground out the ignition.

 

[Martyn Goodwin]

Without question I would toss that thing. If I felt the need for an anti sumping device, I would be more comfortable with a manual valve with a built in switch to ground out the ignition.

The best anti-sumping device is an unworn oil pump!

 

[Cyborg]

I would be inclined to say that the best anti sumping device is to ride the damn thing, but I haven’t been setting a very good example.

 

[Peter Holmes]

I wouldn't trust any of those anti wet sumping devices, it is a mechanical device, it has a spring in it, it could malfunction, as previously said, far better to use the bike regularly, but if thats not possible, and it sumps, just drain of the sump into a clean jug and pour it back into the oil tank, probably takes 5 mins max, far better than risking a wrecked engine.

 

[greg brillus]

Ok so what causes a Vincent to wet sump......?........ do we all think the oil pumps are that worn out........My findings are more along the lines of damage to the pump sleeve bore, this causing oil to bypass the outside of the pump. Of course to actually measure the wear on the pressure side of the pump is not that easy, it can't be from the scavenge side.......careless disassembly and reassembly, nicks and burrs on the sleeve when it is removed or damage from the crank being removed with the pump worm still on the mainshaft and clips the sleeve on it's way out.......... Any damage to the sleeve if not removed first will damage the sleeve housing when it is removed. Don't mean to change the thread, but this is the cause of the thread as it were....... Any thoughts.

 

[vibrac]

All depends where the pump stops
If I left the Comet racer for a month or so between races I always dumped the sump before starting her up sometimes there was a lot sometimes a dribble
NB. any old racing oil is good as I use old R as my lathe cutting oil...

 

[greg brillus]

Yes good point Tim, my bike does that as well.......Almost as if the cut out in the plunger is lined up with both inlet/outlet ports at the same time. I don't think they do, but perhaps when it is close then this happens. Just to keep you happy I have decided to keep running my racer on castor oil, as I did with the twin racer a few years back...........

 

[Peter Holmes]

My Comet never wet sumps, even over quite long periods, nothing discernible anyway, my Rapide was rebuilt a good few years ago by one of the best, and pretty much wet sumped from day one, although in every other respect the engine could not be faulted, I would find it hard to accept that any of the maladies described by Greg could have been perpetrated by the engine builder that I used, although I do believe Greg is correct in his observations. I have never tested the theory of just prodding the flywheels on a few degrees more than the normal coming to rest position, has anyone tried this with an engine that wet sumps, and if so does it work.

 

[bmetcalf]

My one superstition is to avoid mentioning anything good involving my Rap's ease of starting, oil pump, clutch, dynamo, or magneto for fear of jinxing it immediately. The wood seat base is too hard to reach for "touching/knocking".