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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Changing oil with an anti-wet sump pump valve?
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<blockquote data-quote="Howard" data-source="post: 69729" data-attributes="member: 271"><p>Even though I've no intention of using an anti-sumping valve, Vibrac's comment on my shot-from-the-hip suggestion has made me take a better look.</p><p></p><p>The anti-sumping valves I've looked at are non-return valves <u>fitted backwards</u> and relying on a weak pump to supply sufficient vacuum to unseat the valve. Furthermore, the valves are fittted as a fix for <u>worn</u> pumps! </p><p></p><p>This is done because lack of use may cause oil to fill the sump, leading to blue exhaust smoke for a couple of miles, or the removal of the sump plug to drain the sump. Well worth it you may think, but the alternative means that, when standing, oil can drain from between the ASV and the pump, leaving a column of air that can't be seen, and if the engine is run in this condition there is no obvious indicator (blue smoke), the pump can't pump air, and an expensive failure will follow. To prevent this from happening requires pump priming, which takes longer than draining the sump, and isn't an exact science.</p><p></p><p>The non-return (ASV) needs to be fitted after the pump (on the pressure side) and the answer is “No I don't know where or how it can be done” but that's no excuse for making a pain into a possible disaster. I don't know anyone who's had a failure because they used a standard oil pipe, but I do know people who've lost money and riding time due entirely to bad ASVs.</p><p></p><p>As far as fitting a manual valve, why not, as long as it's a full bore one and there's a <u><strong>foolproof</strong> </u>way of making sure the valve's open when the engine's running. I don't know about the rest of you old codgers, but I can't remember which side the reserve petrol tap is, so there's no way I could risk this without a very safe safety.</p><p></p><p>Just a few thoughts.</p><p></p><p>H</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Howard, post: 69729, member: 271"] Even though I've no intention of using an anti-sumping valve, Vibrac's comment on my shot-from-the-hip suggestion has made me take a better look. The anti-sumping valves I've looked at are non-return valves [U]fitted backwards[/U] and relying on a weak pump to supply sufficient vacuum to unseat the valve. Furthermore, the valves are fittted as a fix for [U]worn[/U] pumps! This is done because lack of use may cause oil to fill the sump, leading to blue exhaust smoke for a couple of miles, or the removal of the sump plug to drain the sump. Well worth it you may think, but the alternative means that, when standing, oil can drain from between the ASV and the pump, leaving a column of air that can't be seen, and if the engine is run in this condition there is no obvious indicator (blue smoke), the pump can't pump air, and an expensive failure will follow. To prevent this from happening requires pump priming, which takes longer than draining the sump, and isn't an exact science. The non-return (ASV) needs to be fitted after the pump (on the pressure side) and the answer is “No I don't know where or how it can be done” but that's no excuse for making a pain into a possible disaster. I don't know anyone who's had a failure because they used a standard oil pipe, but I do know people who've lost money and riding time due entirely to bad ASVs. As far as fitting a manual valve, why not, as long as it's a full bore one and there's a[B] [/B][U][B]foolproof[/B] [/U]way of making sure the valve's open when the engine's running. I don't know about the rest of you old codgers, but I can't remember which side the reserve petrol tap is, so there's no way I could risk this without a very safe safety. Just a few thoughts. H [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Changing oil with an anti-wet sump pump valve?
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