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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cams- looking end on
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<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 178032" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>Looking at the photos, the cams are in the same relative position. The right side of the photo is TDC where you adjust the tappets. The lobes are a bit biased to the left side of the photo, so that would be the overlap side of the cams. The overlap is a little more difficult to see, but if you remember that the pushrods are separated by a reasonable distance you will see that both pushrods are sitting on the lobe ramps and slightly open. This is also where equal lift occurs. On the right side, no lift occurs.</p><p></p><p>The lobes on the number 10 cans are fatter than the number 6 lobes, which means the valves will be open longer, particularly when they are open. This longer duration normally occurs on a race cam, which should be the Mk2.</p><p></p><p>The number 6 cam lobes are more pyramidal showing less duration and height (or valve lift) than a race cam. The number 6 cam should be a Mk1 or Mk3.</p><p></p><p>The Mk1 and Mk3 should be the same cam. The Mk3 is a Mk1 with quieting ramps. I think what this means is that the Factory made the lobes slightly more "arced" than "flat," but as Norman says, it is difficult to find the "quieting ramps,"</p><p></p><p>It is worth measuring the base circle of the cam. An old "hot rodding" trick is to reduce the diameter of the base circle (on the right side) giving the lobes a bit more opening relative to the closed valve. It is good to find that out sooner than later.</p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 178032, member: 1177"] Looking at the photos, the cams are in the same relative position. The right side of the photo is TDC where you adjust the tappets. The lobes are a bit biased to the left side of the photo, so that would be the overlap side of the cams. The overlap is a little more difficult to see, but if you remember that the pushrods are separated by a reasonable distance you will see that both pushrods are sitting on the lobe ramps and slightly open. This is also where equal lift occurs. On the right side, no lift occurs. The lobes on the number 10 cans are fatter than the number 6 lobes, which means the valves will be open longer, particularly when they are open. This longer duration normally occurs on a race cam, which should be the Mk2. The number 6 cam lobes are more pyramidal showing less duration and height (or valve lift) than a race cam. The number 6 cam should be a Mk1 or Mk3. The Mk1 and Mk3 should be the same cam. The Mk3 is a Mk1 with quieting ramps. I think what this means is that the Factory made the lobes slightly more "arced" than "flat," but as Norman says, it is difficult to find the "quieting ramps," It is worth measuring the base circle of the cam. An old "hot rodding" trick is to reduce the diameter of the base circle (on the right side) giving the lobes a bit more opening relative to the closed valve. It is good to find that out sooner than later. David [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cams- looking end on
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