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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cam Wear
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<blockquote data-quote="Nigel Spaxman" data-source="post: 92737" data-attributes="member: 2907"><p>Thanks for all these great tips. I think I will start by shortening the push rod a little bit, or I will cut the hex off the adjuster. It has always amazed me that there is enough clearance there. I think cutting the hex off the adjuster is the best idea as moving the hex down by shortening the push rod really only moves the hex parallel to the area of the cap that it hits on. It is annoying that you have to turn the engine a bit to take the caps off. After I put on the HRD caps instead of the Vincent ones I did notice those marks. I have previously checked the clearances below the collars on the valves and all around the rockers, there was extra in those spots and valve to piston clearance as well. The timing chest was very quiet when I first put the bike together. People complimented me on it. I think the cases can get hot enough for the spindles to move. I can't see any other way I ended up with this .020 clearance on all the spindles when there was .003- .005 before. The spindle for the front intake rocker turns when I tighten the nut too much. It wasn't like that when I first assembled the engine but that is the way it is now. I think the others are a bit tighter because they can't spin but they aren't that tight. They must all be pretty close to spec since they are all new spindles in bushed holes reamed back to standard size. Probably the spindles didn't move until last summer in the Okanagan when it was about 100 degrees F! British Colombia was starting to burn and there was smoke everywhere. I really like the idea of more oil going down the push rod tubes. I have sealed guides, so I will do something to increase the oil down there. I had worried that opening the oil holes out to much might reduce the return of oil to the tank too much. I think I will just do that to the rear one and then make sure I have no contact happening with the valve caps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nigel Spaxman, post: 92737, member: 2907"] Thanks for all these great tips. I think I will start by shortening the push rod a little bit, or I will cut the hex off the adjuster. It has always amazed me that there is enough clearance there. I think cutting the hex off the adjuster is the best idea as moving the hex down by shortening the push rod really only moves the hex parallel to the area of the cap that it hits on. It is annoying that you have to turn the engine a bit to take the caps off. After I put on the HRD caps instead of the Vincent ones I did notice those marks. I have previously checked the clearances below the collars on the valves and all around the rockers, there was extra in those spots and valve to piston clearance as well. The timing chest was very quiet when I first put the bike together. People complimented me on it. I think the cases can get hot enough for the spindles to move. I can't see any other way I ended up with this .020 clearance on all the spindles when there was .003- .005 before. The spindle for the front intake rocker turns when I tighten the nut too much. It wasn't like that when I first assembled the engine but that is the way it is now. I think the others are a bit tighter because they can't spin but they aren't that tight. They must all be pretty close to spec since they are all new spindles in bushed holes reamed back to standard size. Probably the spindles didn't move until last summer in the Okanagan when it was about 100 degrees F! British Colombia was starting to burn and there was smoke everywhere. I really like the idea of more oil going down the push rod tubes. I have sealed guides, so I will do something to increase the oil down there. I had worried that opening the oil holes out to much might reduce the return of oil to the tank too much. I think I will just do that to the rear one and then make sure I have no contact happening with the valve caps. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Cam Wear
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