'C' Rap rebuild problem

[champion]

Hello VOC!
My father and I are in the process of putting his 'C' twin back on the road, we are putting the timing chest together and we have come across a couple of small problems.

We went to remove the oil pressure releif valve out of the timing cover to inspect it. We removed the bolt with the spring attached, but the little Part:OP37 is well and truly stuck up inside.

We have tried heating it, WD40 soaking over night, heating it again - hotter, soaking it. poking it from behind with a little bit of wire, heating it again even hotter, WD40.

With no luck at all.

What do we think?


Next:

last month when we went to remove the cams and followers for inspection, we removed the large alloy idler to replace with a steel one, and at the same time wanted to remove the half time pinion (ET49. It does not have the 3 extractor holes drilled into it, so we can not use a puller to get it off.

It looks like a timed breather gear ET49/1 has been put on, round the wrong way instead.

How on earth do you remove an ET49 without splitting the crank cases?

Alex and paul champion.





P.s. Please excuse if my part numbers are wrong - I am checking them via google.
P.s.s I am sure there will be more to follow.

 

[chankly bore]

Perhaps I got lucky, but I bought a timing cover on Greedybay that had two plungers tight in it.I tried all the above, then tapped an Ezy-out into the plunger and got it turning. It then freed and I extracted it. As I say---- maybe I got lucky!! The second plunger came out easily.The ET 49 sounds a turd of a problem. Perhaps gentle leverage with a pice of alloy or brass to protect the crankcase. A bit at a time and whilst turning the motor bit by bit. Careful not to damage the outer timig side bearing immediately beneath. Good Luck and let us know how you go. Careful with the Ezy-out.

 

[davidd]

Alex and Paul,

On the first, take your time and keep spritzing and heating. I like Croil, but I don't know if it is distributed in the UK.

The second is more difficult. Make a steel spacer that slips over the mainshaft and is tall enough to clear the end of the shaft. The outside diameter should end just short of the tooth root so you can weld the spacer to the pinion. Then, take a piece of steel round stock, drill and thread it to match the thread on you slide hammer puller. Weld this onto the spacer that is welded to the pinion. Screw in the slide hammer puller and whack. This sounds complicated but it will remove the pinion easily with no damage or additional parts removal.

David

 

[mercurycrest]

Alex and Paul,

On the first, take your time and keep spritzing and heating. I like Croil, but I don't know if it is distributed in the UK.

The second is more difficult. Make a steel spacer that slips over the mainshaft and is tall enough to clear the end of the shaft. The outside diameter should end just short of the tooth root so you can weld the spacer to the pinion. Then, take a piece of steel round stock, drill and thread it to match the thread on you slide hammer puller. Weld this onto the spacer that is welded to the pinion. Screw in the slide hammer puller and whack. This sounds complicated but it will remove the pinion easily with no damage or additional parts removal.


Too much work..... Just snap a pair of vice grips on the gear, tie 20 feet of 1/4 inch clothes line between the vice grips and a big rock, give the rock a good hard toss and Bob's Yer Uncle! Don't use a shorter line 'cause it will snap that bloody rock right back in your face! don't ask..

 

[vibrac]

getting that timing cover plunger out
no heat no sweat
get some ball bearings and insert them one after another into orifice where the quill goes and up the back passage (if you pardon the expression) about 3 or 4 will bring the front one against the plunger nose then apply a bit of pressure to the protruding ball with a screw driver adding balls if required- simples!

 

[nkt267]

getting that timing cover plunger out
no heat no sweat
get some ball bearings and insert them one after another into orifice where the quill goes and up the back passage (if you pardon the expression) about 3 or 4 will bring the front one against the plunger nose then apply a bit of pressure to the protruding ball with a screw driver adding balls if required- simples!

That's how I got my one out..John

 

[clevtrev]

screw a 1/4" BSF tap into the plunger and pull on it.

 

[roy the mechanic]

A 7/32 ball bearing against the relief valve and a tapered punch will start the beastly thing moving ,tap gently with a SMALL hammer, Work it in +out, if stubborn you may need a big-end roller as a spacer. As for the gear, a pair of snap-on pry bars will shift most things.