G: Gearbox (Single - Burman) Burman Clutch Arm 175X

Martyn Goodwin

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Well Bill, with the 7/8" lever you get more force from what is effectively the reduced distance of the fulcrum point, hence less effort required at the lever, but the trade off is you get marginally less clutch plate disengagement in relation to the available handlebar lever movement.
I already have 7/8" levers
 

Peter Holmes

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Not everyone does Martyn, when I had a Honda clutch fitted to my Comet I found the clutch lever became intolerably heavy to operate, so I fitted a 7/8" lever, a nice new cable and routed it as sympathetically as I could whist preserving the tidiness of the bike (I cannot stand cables just draped loose along the LHS of the bike) and I now find it quite tolerable, but not as nice as my twin.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
OK Chaps, here is a photograph of all the parts except for the push rod.
1632990105962.jpeg

The left hand part shows the outer plare with the gadget pressed into the original hole in the plate which has been enlarged. To its right is the piece that gets pressed in and then the top hat which is the same as the one used on the kits for the twins. Below those are the three parts of the needle roller thrust race. I have two of the bits which need to be inserted into the clutch plate left in stock and many of the other parts as they fit the twins. The kit for the twins also contains a 7.5" pushrod which has to be cut to length. One end is hardened and the other left soft to allow the trimming to length. This is because one never knows what has been left inside the mainshaft on a twin and I cannot provide the exact length needed. I do not have access to a Comet so I do not know what length of pushrod might be needed.
So all that is needed is to remove the original steel centre from the outer clutch plate and then to press in the part shown.. This should be a tight fit. The rest of the parts just go staight in with a little non fling grease. It was interesting when I did thse years ago to see the state of the steel insert in the outer plates. Several had a hole worn into their centres by the push rod. If these are of interest to anyone then I can provide two kits without getting anything made but unless someone can tell me how long the pushrod should be then I might have to leave that up to you. If more that two are interested then I could try to get a few of the inserts made but that might take a while. Alternatively I can make a drawing of the larger part and just supply the rest of the bits i.e the top hat bush and needle roller thrust race. Over to you.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
OK so there are now eight orders and I can try to get the CNC chaps to do ten but they are likely to take weeks, even if they will take on such a simple job. My machining is not up to making stuff to sell so before I do any more is there anyone in this VOC family who is prepared to make a few. The only part needed is the part to be pressed into the ally plate. It is steel and is made from a piece of 32 mm diameter round bar. has no threads or other complications. I can send a CAD drawing to anyone out there who has the time and skills. I do not make a mark up on other peoples work so you will not be being used.
I also need some information about the clutch push rod on Comets. I do not have access to one so I have no idea whether it is a split one like on the twins.. I could just send out the devices without a pushrod which is only a length of 1/4" diameter silver steel but when I send them out I harden the inner end.
 

delboy

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
OK so there are now eight orders and I can try to get the CNC chaps to do ten but they are likely to take weeks, even if they will take on such a simple job. My machining is not up to making stuff to sell so before I do any more is there anyone in this VOC family who is prepared to make a few. The only part needed is the part to be pressed into the ally plate. It is steel and is made from a piece of 32 mm diameter round bar. has no threads or other complications. I can send a CAD drawing to anyone out there who has the time and skills. I do not make a mark up on other peoples work so you will not be being used.
I also need some information about the clutch push rod on Comets. I do not have access to one so I have no idea whether it is a split one like on the twins.. I could just send out the devices without a pushrod which is only a length of 1/4" diameter silver steel but when I send them out I harden the inner end.
Hi Norman,
The post-war 500 clutch pushrod is a one-piece 1/4" silver steel rod. I have never had a problem with it being one piece or heard it mentioned as a general problem on the 500's pre- or post-war.

My book of notes on post-war clutch pushrods says:-
Ron Kemp- 11.1/4"
Ed Stevens- 11.3/8" not 11.5/8"
Know thy Beast - 11.3/8" long or 2 x 5.9/16" and a 1/4" roller.
Robin [Blackwell I guess?] -11.1/4", cut in half and 2 x 1/4" x 5/16" rollers.

Clearly originally they fitted them with a finite length, but we're some years away from that now.
A dogs breakfast, depending on the number of clutch plates and lots of other variables, I just make the pushrod to suit the individual bike.
I'd just send the kit out with an explanation to replace or trim the clutch pushrod to length and re-harden.
Hope that's of some help.
Delboy.
 

Bill Thomas

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Yes I have done mine like Robin.
And the last Spares Company plates
I used were much thicker than before.
So we only used 4 plates.
Cheers Bill.
 
Top