FF: Forks Best Front Damper for Series ‘C’ Twin, Recommendation Please - Petteford Information?

[kerry]

You may be right but this was one of the messages .. "I tried several dampers back to back over a fixed route, the worst by far was Koni's (I tried 3 different ones ranging from new to well abused"
Seems there are many different opinions with no conclusive answer, Thorntons were the best but are no longer made, Spax not made, Ikon are not listed any more, and the Avo need the top link grinding. So I am still unsure, sorry, but appreciate everyone's time.

 

[Bill Thomas]

There is an adjustment you can do on the Koni,
So we don't know if other people have done that ?,
But I am thinking a lot of our problems are the Springs are too hard,
Over the years I have tried all sorts,
Mostly with the less weight of the Comet.
I have only used standard forks !,
Also the pivots must be free, Eccentrics etc,
I would like to try ZX1 grease , But no one near me stocks it , And I don't do money on the computer.

 

[bmetcalf]

I see that Ikon UK doesn't list Vin dampers, but it appears to be available here: https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/product/ikon-basix-71/

The bit of filing on the upper link for the AVO may only be needed if you fit the JE modification and is not apparent at all after repainting.

 

[kerry]

Thanks Bruce, only problem is with import duty etc it will be over £300, this damper looks the part and hopefully works well so maybe there are some in the UK somewhere ?? anyone know please, I know the spares co used to sell them but don't now and the new D1AS are out of stock !

 

[Simon Dinsdale]

Avo need the top link grinding.

Kerry, I have used the AVO front damper and never had to grind the top link but that is with the original Girdraulic setup.

If you use the modified lower link geometry setup that Timetraveller sells (some call it the JE mod) then some owners have had to grind the top link for clearance to the damper but that its a completely seperate issue and due to the modified Girdraulics moving differently, so not relevant to you.

 

[Chris Launders]

Kerry if you want to try a Koni I will willingly send you both of mine to try as I'm not using them, it's only a 5 minute job to swap them over.

Chris.

 

[stu spalding]

and the Avo need the top link grinding.

Hi Kerry, the series "D" top links were ground anyway so I shouldn't worry about it. Cheers, Stu.

 

[kerry]

Kerry, I have used the AVO front damper and never had to grind the top link but that is with the original Girdraulic setup.

If you use the modified lower link geometry setup that Timetraveller sells (some call it the JE mod) then some owners have had to grind the top link for clearance to the damper but that its a completely seperate issue and due to the modified Girdraulics moving differently, so not relevant to you.

Hi Simon,
I have fitted 2 and had to grind the link which I hated having to do on both, both were D series though.
Kerry.

 

[kerry]

Kerry if you want to try a Koni I will willingly send you both of mine to try as I'm not using them, it's only a 5 minute job to swap them over.

Chris.

Chris that is kind of you,But I am happy to buy both from you and try front and back and will pay postage too, I am not very good at this but will try and send a private message.
Kerry.

 

[Simon Dinsdale]

Hi Simon,
I have fitted 2 and had to grind the link which I hated having to do on both, both were D series though.
Kerry.

Kerry
I have only fitted AVO dampers to series C machines with standard geometry and so used the std short damper eye bolt FF57 for series C's. I believe series D's had FF57/1 which is longer and if used with an AVO damper then I don't know if it causes the clearance problem with the top link as the longer eye bolts will allow the forks to drop further with no weight on them.

Please note this is all using standard geometry forks and not the JM modification.