PR: Proprietary Items ATD Unit
- Thread starter erik
- Start date
Erik,
As you are getting no answers I will just say I like the Tufnol gear. I had a bad experience withe the old white nylon gears that fell apart. I know the new ones are better, but I have had no reason not to use the Tufnol.
I don't run an ATD, so I am not certain about the necessity of rivets. I have used bolts to hold the gear on.
David
As you are getting no answers I will just say I like the Tufnol gear. I had a bad experience withe the old white nylon gears that fell apart. I know the new ones are better, but I have had no reason not to use the Tufnol.
I don't run an ATD, so I am not certain about the necessity of rivets. I have used bolts to hold the gear on.
David
Erik,
Maughans make their ATD gears from black Acetal (or is it Delrin- I can't remember?). I have purchased some in the last 18 months and so far have no problems.
That said, I like the tufnol ones because they have survived the test of time. However, more recently, there have been some batches of tufnol ones on the market that are dimensionally inaccurate.
I have always used rivets because they too have survived the test of time, they are easily available and there is little space in the ATD application for anything else.
Hope this helps,
Peter B
Maughans make their ATD gears from black Acetal (or is it Delrin- I can't remember?). I have purchased some in the last 18 months and so far have no problems.
That said, I like the tufnol ones because they have survived the test of time. However, more recently, there have been some batches of tufnol ones on the market that are dimensionally inaccurate.
I have always used rivets because they too have survived the test of time, they are easily available and there is little space in the ATD application for anything else.
Hope this helps,
Peter B
We had a recon mag that had a new Tufnol gear on it and had a hell of a time as the bike would not come back to idle. We suspected the ATD was awry, changed springs, checked that it was not dragging against the end of the mag etc. finally took it off and replaced it with another one. Bike ran perfectly. Took the unit back to the shop and started measuring the gear as it seemed that was the only possible explanation. the thread wires in the gear said it was fine. I then noticed that the face of the teeth were "shiny". I checked the OD of the gear and it was about .020 over on the diameter. In the lathe and tickled .015 off the radius. Problem disappeared!
It's a woodworking term for a patch or joint. May originate from the fact that the Dutch are suspected of actually being more thrifty than the Scots. This is what I am referring to. It came from a machine that Robert Watson is working on. He did want me to point out that this repair was done back in the 50's or 60's when parts were scarce out amongst the rocky mountains. Guess he didn't want all y'all to think we are a little different over here. We've moved on and are now capable of whittling out entirely new gears.
Attachments
While on the subject of ATD's the really hard part to source - and one that causes the most grief is what I refer to as the main backing plate that can - and does - shed its 'ears'. Despite years of searching I am yet to find a source of replacements.
Here is a photo of a very sad case!
Actually I am surprised that a 'modern' replacement has not been devised.
In the most part I do not consider 'electronic' ignition systems to be a suitable replacement.
Here is a photo of a very sad case!
Actually I am surprised that a 'modern' replacement has not been devised.
In the most part I do not consider 'electronic' ignition systems to be a suitable replacement.
