Misc: Everything Else Norvin 600 Build

[roy the mechanic]

That's only part of the story. It is supposed to go ALL the way to the top of the steering head to stop flexing during braking.

 

[Cyborg]

Not for a Norvin, but same idea.

 

[chankly bore]

Thanks loads for the comments.......I have to admit that my knowledge of Norton's is limited, but that is where this forum is a cracker when info is needed, I have the help of you lot to assist me. I understand the need for correct alignment with all the drive train, and that was my aim when carrying out the initial fit up of the gearbox and engine. I also have to build a twin Norvin (not the one in the other posting) using a new replica Wideline frame, brand spanking new twin engine, with TZ front and rear brakes, so this one is a good learner for the next one. Roy do you have a single Norvin as well.......?.......Cheers, Greg.

You've probably done this, but a separable roller bearing for the clutch end of the layshaft is a very good plan.The standard bearing is prone to seizing. PM me for more info.

 

[Chris Launders]

My "Forth bridge" head/frame steady.

 

[Mike 40M]

The Manx head steady looks like this (if I manage to upload)

 

[greg brillus]

I'll get a few more pictures on here, the lower front plates are done and came up great, and they actually fit with no "Fettling" Ok the head stock has that lug and the one on the cross tube as well. It looks like I'll be able to run some brackets in a straight line from the cylinder head bracket diagonally to the head stock with no problems. I haven't gone through the gearbox yet, but i will strip it as it seems to leak oil from the main shafts a bit. Soon I will actually temporarily install the proper engine so I can check the alignment of the clutch and the primary belt and see if I have allowed enough movement in the gearbox to adjust the belt tension.

 

[Oldhaven]

Greg,

I am quite interested in what you are doing right now since I will soon be making transmission plates for my Dunfey framed Comet special with a Commando box and a Newby 30mm belt drive and clutch. While you have a Manx type frame with its own mounts, I am also considering transmission mounting options that do not involve an F106 frame tie that was designed for another gearbox, and I like what you are doing. It appears that you will be making your own inner primary plate rather than the standard Comet inner housing.
I was under the assumption that belt tension over time was not going to change much due to stretch if the initial setup is correct and the belt is changed at regular intervals and that interval would be over a relatively high mileage. Also, if an adjustment slot is a good option, should the slot be radial to the lower box mount and curved rather than straight?

 

[Mike 40M]

Preferably a curved slot. On Nortons with belt drive, some people have two adjusters, one on each side to keep engine and gearbox axles parallel. May not be needed with the relatively mild torque of a Comet engine.

 

[Bill Thomas]

Bob Newby definitely suggests an adjustment slot for the belt drive however I must admit however that ten years ago I was not aware of that and I have not got one on the racer but I do change the belt every season
As for getting rid of the inner chaincase, thats what I did on my 600 Egli Comet-now almost finished (chain case outer removed) however it is possible to fit it all in a standard housing at least with an Albion box as thats what I have done with the Grey Flash see pic 2
View attachment 17609

View attachment 17610

That's nice, What Carb' is that ?. Cheers Bill.

 

[vibrac]

Mikuni on one of their rubber mounts-when I fitted a smaller VM on the cooking Comet I had a lot of trouble with the rubber mount-(don't get oil on it and don't tighten the clips to far). in the end I used one of Bens K100 hose pipes -it has not moved since -we will have to see what this one is like