Misc: Everything Else Norvin 600 Build
- Thread starter davidd
- Start date
Thanks David, Well this is a new one for me..............A genuine slimline frame, 600 Comet engine, AMC Commando gearbox, Belt primary with diaphragm clutch. I received the frame as a "Rolling chassis" and I've started from the back wheel (sprocket) and worked my way forward from there. We bought the engine/gearbox that already had the belt primary, with the gearbox tucked up very close behind the engine, and the belt allows for shaft centers not much over 200 mm, so I have set up the engine and gearbox as close together as I can. I made up some thick card templates for the rear plates, hoping to couple to the back of the engine, and this has worked out very well. I then gave these templates to my machinist who made up the plates out of 6061 sheet alloy. I had to do some minor fettling to allow the gearbox some adjustment and move freely, and we then made up some alloy spacers to make up the difference in widths between the gearbox/frame mounts and the engine. Gearbox mounts are around 81 mm in width, verses the Comet at 124 mm, and the actual width of the cases on the Vin engine are not equal with the right side about 3 mm wider than the left. You can see the same thick card I used to make up the front lower plates, and again these will be from the same alloy sheet, and ready to pick up tomorrow. I feel I will also be able to make up two small triangular lugs that will bolt up to the lower rear bolt hole in the front plates and I will weld these directly to the Norton frame. I am hoping that with the front attachment/gearbox through studs removed, that the complete engine can be lifted, the bottom swung out and remove/install the engine in one go quite easily. The engine in the pics is empty and not the actual engine, as the proper engine is on the bench all rebuilt and ready to go. Any thoughts and contributions welcomed........... Cheers for now............Greg.
Hi Greg.
Before you weld in the centre lugs check the frame, it looks as though the bottom rail is bowed up, on the drive side at least.
Also because of where the cylinder head is you may have to put in another cross tube on the top rails for a brace to stiffen the steering head properly, don't forget on a featherbed the cylinder head/frame/steering head steady is vital (I am probably teaching you to suck eggs)
Chris.
Before you weld in the centre lugs check the frame, it looks as though the bottom rail is bowed up, on the drive side at least.
Also because of where the cylinder head is you may have to put in another cross tube on the top rails for a brace to stiffen the steering head properly, don't forget on a featherbed the cylinder head/frame/steering head steady is vital (I am probably teaching you to suck eggs)
Chris.
Hi there Chris, No that's fine, I will check the lower tubes as you mentioned. I was not aware of the head steady/cylinder head tie. I was planning on running a bracket from a lazer cut type cylinder head bracket like the ones I had made up for the Series"A" project bike I am also building. Does this tie need to be adjustable like a turnbuckle type of arrangement or fixed......?........Cheers........Greg.
Hi Greg,
If the tie is not substantial the forks "flutter" as the steering head flex's when braking, in the original frame the top tubes were not welded/brazed to the downtubes but merely crossed, but by welding it Norton created a pivot point, the steady on roadgoing Nortons is a steel plate but on Manx's it's a fine thread turnbuckle. This is why Norton had to first fit the gusset plate below the steering head for road bikes and then fit the swaged tube inside as the frame cracked at the bottom of the gusset, to try and stiffen it up
Ask anyone with a Dommi what it's like if the head steady bolts loosen.
If the tie is not substantial the forks "flutter" as the steering head flex's when braking, in the original frame the top tubes were not welded/brazed to the downtubes but merely crossed, but by welding it Norton created a pivot point, the steady on roadgoing Nortons is a steel plate but on Manx's it's a fine thread turnbuckle. This is why Norton had to first fit the gusset plate below the steering head for road bikes and then fit the swaged tube inside as the frame cracked at the bottom of the gusset, to try and stiffen it up
Ask anyone with a Dommi what it's like if the head steady bolts loosen.
Greg, if you remove the fuel tank you should see a tab by the top of the steering stem, and another on the crosstube above the cylinder head. A piece of engine plate joins them and continues on for the head steady. Now Ihave seen yours it makes mine with the burman box , look like a breaker. Roy.
Thanks loads for the comments.......I have to admit that my knowledge of Norton's is limited, but that is where this forum is a cracker when info is needed, I have the help of you lot to assist me. I understand the need for correct alignment with all the drive train, and that was my aim when carrying out the initial fit up of the gearbox and engine. I also have to build a twin Norvin (not the one in the other posting) using a new replica Wideline frame, brand spanking new twin engine, with TZ front and rear brakes, so this one is a good learner for the next one. Roy do you have a single Norvin as well.......?.......Cheers, Greg.
Yes Greg been at it for a while now. It's everything that the first one isn't! model 50 wideline, comet engine burman box vin primary. The owner calls now and then, says he likes what he sees, even puts his hand in his pocket . just made the wiring loom, connecting up that will be the dry build done. Roy.
Ah yes the wiring.......I just love hooking up the battery for the first time and waiting for the smoke................
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