H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Measuring Rear Wheel Play

[Bowsh]

Hi all,

Well, it’s the first time I’ve removed the rear wheel on my Series C Rapide. Having inspected the bearings and breaks all looks good. I have reassembled the bearings and packed them with grease etc. I’ve left the shimms in the same position, the break plates don’t appear to be binding. Also, when tightening the brake plate retaining nuts they stay proud of the hollow hub bolt. My question is this, what is the best way to measure 1/32 of wheel play? I’ve tried a vernier mounted on a magnetic bracket but, every time I try too see how much play there is the whole bike moves.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Paul

 

[macvette]

I got this tip from Ron Kemp. Take a Black and Decker Workmate or equivalent, extend the legs and stand it up so that the table is vertical. Take the wheel off the bike.Clamp the wheel by its tyre so it is also vertical. Assemble the bearings and shims in the hub without grease so that you have 3 thou float on the axle. Remove and grease the bearings, reassemble. Shim the brake plates to give minimum clearance . You check this by rotating them with wheel still clamped. In your case you could simply remove the wheel from the bike, leaving it assembled, support it as above and check the end float on the axle but I don't know what the end float would be with bearings packed with grease.

 

[vibrac]

Don't forget the shims go inside the bearings for bearing fit and outside the bearing for nut to spindle or plate clear spin if alloy plates
I have only just started to use nylos rings after all those years of doing wheels (old racing habits die hard) they seem to be very effective

 

[Albervin]

The most important thing is to use NO GREASE when fitting. By all means use a light oil. As Tim says, shims inside the bearings is the starting point. Like all things Vincent, if you don't know what you are doing, get someone to assist who does know. After 35 years I still follow this mantra.

 

[BigEd]

The most important thing is to use NO GREASE when fitting. By all means use a light oil. As Tim says, shims inside the bearings is the starting point. Like all things Vincent, if you don't know what you are doing, get someone to assist who does know. After 35 years I still follow this mantra.

Easiest done with the wheel on the bench and preferably supported so that it is vertical. I fit the shims behind the bearings until it feels close and then I have two bits of pipe as spacers that slip to the hollow axle and then put the nuts on and nip it up. add or remove shims until you have the clearance you want before moving on to get the clearance right for the brake plates. I personally have never tried for 1/32" clearance at the rim but for almost imperceptible to non as long as the wheel spins freely. I've never had a wheel bearing problem in 40,000 + miles and as these look to be original bearings who knows how many miles they may have done. If you have an M-o-T some testers might say your 1/32" clearance indicates worn wheel bearings and give you a fail.

 

[vibrac]

The spares company do a set of shims H17/SET thats what I use. I get a movment with no play at all situation then remove the thinnest (3 thou) and thats it
I seem to remember the thinnest used to be 5 thou but I could be wrong
on some hubs I have needed to turn up a small ring to replace some of the growing pile of outside shims and I think different imperial taper bearings central core heights from different makers over the years are the culprit

 

[Bowsh]

Thanks for all the advice. I’m going to purchase a dial gauge and give it a go myself in the first instance. Once I’ve mashed it up I will seek some help....lol. Seriously though, I will ask at the next club meeting.

Re oil no grease, I’m assuming this is when checking end float and not final assembly as I would always grease pack?

 

[macvette]

Thanks for all the advice. I’m going to purchase a dial gauge and give it a go myself in the first instance. Once I’ve mashed it up I will seek some help....lol. Seriously though, I will ask at the next club meeting.

Re oil no grease, I’m assuming this is when checking end float and not final assembly as I would always grease pack?

Yes ckeck the float without grease, disassemble, pack with grease, reassemble with the shims as determined by float check

 

[Bill Thomas]

This is another job I do by feel, With the bearings dry and with spacers, So that you can nip them up as they would be on the bike, Add or take away shims till you can feel just a knats of play, Same amount of shims both sides, You can also hear it Click.
And as you say then pack with grease, Not too much or it will get on the brake shoes, Cheers Bill.

 

[vibrac]

Yep dial guages gather dust nowadays . Even the valve timing equal heights are done with a Vernier but I have promised myself some digital ones for my next big build.