C: Clutch Clutchplate

chankly bore

Well Known and Active Forum User
Non-VOC Member
Some hero I remember showed P.E.I. a very much drilled and thinned camshaft pinion, probably hoping for praise. Phil. passed it straight back, saying "It took me some time to design the standard part."
 

Alyson

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Yes, Regina, was first series 350 but modded for 400 cc and one ex pipe cut and head welded up for mimicking a "Sports" Regina with single ex pipe. This is not my bike but Toni´s, who had troubles from -- warped clutch plates ! So then we changed plates for slotted types , plus he got my 28mm Bing plus bellmouth - goes quite well he reported.
The "stiffening" tubes I´d call homeopathic effect, small plus the bends - hard to notice any benefit on the road . But then various communities got their various "cool" goodies everybody needs for respect. A bit like 2 " ex pipes on Vincents I suspect, nobody elsewhere would want that size on their bikes, not worth the hassle.

Vic
View attachment 60179
She's a beauty ! Just wondering what colour paint that is, it's VERY similar to my '59 Triumph Tigress which is polychromatic blue. Alyson Sorry if I'm steering this "off topic"
 

oexing

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Alyson, that Horex colour is called "fishsilberblau" , pointing to prewar tests from other brands utilizing fish scales for that polychromatic effect. Postwar they came up with alu particles in paints, a lot cheaper to produce. Even early VW Beetles had some polychromatic paints on order. Funnily I could not find a lot in internet about fishsilberblau Horexes but they can be seen a lot at meetings, nowadays no big deal having them painted like this using 2 pack paint plus clear coat.
As to securing the ESA thrust plate I will try a tab washer there. You drill a hole in the plate for punching in the tab and bend the washer over a hex flat. Should do I hope - and no big troubles when undoing, no Loctite in there when you have to deal with locking the assembly safe enough for heaving on the screw/nut of the ESA.
The thing is you want next to no play in the splines on crank and splined adapter - a reason why I made splines on crank and pressure plate myself for perfect fit. With some play there will be minimal motion between nut and crank thread and all other parts in there. So you have to care for fretting between components and no amount of torque on nuts will be able to prevent this - same with clutch nut or rear sprocket nut. Just have some safety means like tab washers for keeping it all in place. Loctite can be helpful in places to fill any gaps but you have to care for acceptable disassembly at a later time - so think long about what type you get or any at all.
Drilling cam pinions can be discussed with some views: Lightness may look desirable and I drilled the dynamo sprocket for that reason. I did not do same to cam pinions believing lighter mass would only worsen noises from the alternating loads on gears when climbing up the lobe and dropping down past it in an instant by spring loads - the Vincent clatter from any backlash in gears. Maybe some mass in cam gear will be better in this respect ?

Vic
Horex polychromatic:
fischsilberblau

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