C: Clutch Changing the C17 Bearing in the Clutch Plate Carrier C13

eharris

eharris

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Does anyone have a suggestion on how to change the C17 Bearing in the Clutch Plate Carrier (C13), without a room full of machine tools, or should I ask someone, with the aforementioned room full of machine tools, to do it for me?

The description is that it's a press fit, so if I warm C13 should it push out?

Also, what is the correct OD of the C20 nut that fits inside it?

Cheers,

Ed.
 
C

chankly bore

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It is a self-lubricating "Oilite" bush, so it should just have a slight interference fit or "crush" of about .002". It should press out easily. Soak the new bearing in warm light oil before fitting. No point in warming C13. For memory 1.250" i.d. can anyone confirm this, as I've not monkeyed with Twins for a long time now.
 
Cyborg

Cyborg

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The OD of the C20 seems to be 1.2475” give or take 0.0005. Measured on a NOS nut. I am currently waiting for a new C20 (made by Maughan) because I’m having difficulty finding one that runs true on the mainshaft, which causes the C13 to wobble.
As for replacing the bushing. It can be done in a vise if done carefully. However… the trick is to get the bushing started straight or it will cause problems going in and add to the wobble. Using a press is a much better option. At this point I wouldn’t risk using a vise or just tapping it in.

If you look at the most recent posts in my Black Lightning Replica thread (Projects section), there is some discussion that may interest you…then again, maybe not. I’ve been informed by the local section field marshal that I should stop obsessing about my nuts.
 
stu spalding

stu spalding

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Cyborg said:
I’m having difficulty finding one that runs true on the mainshaft, which causes the C13 to wobble.
Click to expand...
Hi Cyborg, have you tried C3 in each of the 6 positions on the mainshaft? Sometimes they balance each other out. Cheers, Stu.
 
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Cyborg

Cyborg

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stu spalding said:
Hi Cyborg, have you tried C20 in each of the 6 positions on the mainshaft? Sometimes they balance each other out. Cheers, Stu.
Click to expand...
No I haven’t and thank you for the suggestion. I’ll be assembling the clutch in the near future so will likely need you to help save me from myself.
 
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Peter Holmes

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stu spalding said:
Hi Cyborg, have you tried C20 in each of the 6 positions on the mainshaft? Sometimes they balance each other out. Cheers, Stu.
Click to expand...
But surely the C20 nut should be done up tight or to the nearest slot that aligns when tight as possible, which predetermines it’s final position.
 
Cyborg

Cyborg

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I just assumed that if I needed to go that route, I would toss the stock C18/2 and make a new spacer or add a small shim behind the C18/2 if there is enough room. I’m guessing a spacer (instead of the C18/2) and sealant on the splines would be good enough given the stock C18/2 doesn’t appear to be the best way to control oil?
A shim on the outboard side of the C18/2 and then a C19 to suit would also work Y/N?
 
Cyborg

Cyborg

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It’s not just runout that I’m dealing with, it’s also the fact that the C13 wobbles. If the threads on the shaft aren’t concentric then the nuts position on the shaft could still make a difference Y/N?

This video gives an indication of what I’m dealing with. My mainshaft “appears“ to be more or less ok, so hope that the new Maghan’s manufactured C20 nut arriving Monday will be the cure.

C: Clutch - Twin Clutch Drag

I think the excess clearance might be a good start. If you think about the way the pilot clutch works through the two toggle arms, then the more the clearance the more the two toggles are nearly perpendicular and the more force they can impart as the linings are starting to touch the inside of...
www.vincentownersclub.co.uk www.vincentownersclub.co.uk
 
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